thanks everyone for the ideas. ok, sounds like it would not look good if I tried to frankenstein it. or, even if i built a frame around it and tiled it like weedyacres suggested, I would be adding more inches in the front and wasting some space (which is precious for our small home).. i guess it won't be worth it to try to reuse it. anyone want a free cast iron tub, lol?

I renovated my 1939 bath and had my cast iron tub refinished. It was never removed during my renovation. During the renovation, my carpenter removed the old tile (was 1950s, not original) and backing from the walls. The walls and ceiling are plaster. This opened up enough space for him to flash, then use appropriate waterproof board and sealing to install the new tile. I was certain I had "in progress" photos but can't find them -- sorry. I used this shower for a year while the downstairs was renovated. If there had been a leak, I would have known because this is over the living room with plaster ceilings, and I saw what happened when the original sink plumbing leaked and caused the living ceiling to cave in! After renovation:

In this scenario what I do is I upgrade my backer to A product called WEDI specifically wedi for its dense rigid core & their premium sealant.. I fur the wall studs out to ensure my Wedi Board will pass over the smaller flange and set on the tub deck. I then use WEDI sealant to bond the wedi board edge to the tub deck being sure to get a very healthy bead of wedi sealant against the 1/4 flange and fully connecting the board to the tub deck leaving a permanently flexible waterproof joint. Once tiled properly I then fill the 1/8" tile to tub deck gap (change of plane) with pure silicone. Its all in the focused detailing.

jslazart, The house is built in 1908 craftsman style home and not sure what year of this bathtub was made. ( guessing 70 -/+ ) The wall on near round corner tub will be taken off, "L" sahpe curtain rod order is placed already thinking I'm keeping the tub until I ran into this "off level" issue with my new leveler purchase :) Debbie, Thanks for the encouragement, I'm easily pursuable when it comes keeping the old charm intact, but with a reasonable approach. I just want to hear pro's opinion on if these two issues are bad enough to justify new tub replacement. On add on flange, I've gone to tile special forum called John bridge ( thanks to fellow houzzer member who'd mentioned it), and most census are it's better than nothing but not by very much. and mostly those kit for acrylic , ( guess they use special adhesive that make "scratch" on acrylic to adhere. but not on a cast iron) Either with new tub or keeping the tub, this off door trim issue is not going to be resolved unless I re configure whole bathroom which is my last last last resort, I'm leaning toward let's demo adjoining walls and floor and if there's way that my contractor can shim the corner of the tub. Instead of ordering the tub in advance, I'll see how the demo will unveil. As far as drain, no probluem at all, while wall tile being opened, I'm replacing showerhead, valve to match new faucet as well as toilet and vanity. On choosing a contractor, I'm in los angeles where the construction boom has been happening for few years in a row, quite a challnge to find a good one, my strategy to choose middle of the road, hopefully wouldn't do harm. Thanks everyone and will still welcom opinions not only trades expert but old house enthusiast as well!