Sorry - this does require an explanation. I've lived through all the gory details but you haven't. The metal worker (who usually deals with industrial things) made a one piece insert that covered the wood on the inside and bottom of the hood. We also covered part of the Vent-a-Hood insert that could be seen at the back and was stainless. The insulation was actually a 1/4" thick flexible insulating blanket that went between the wood and the metal. Where you see the gray grout/caulk line in front - that's where the curve of the metal that went under the wood arch was a bit too short. As a result the white insulating blanket showed in that gap and also could allow flames/heat to get to the wood of the hood. The metal worked filled the front of the gap with grout/caulk that was fire resistant (hopefully). You can also see some in the back inside corner. We had lots of problems with the inspectors in town so... alexr - I guess when the arch didn't quite fit, we could have asked the metal worker to redo it. It would have meant redoing the whole insert - it was all soldered together and had been aged, etc. Although it could probably have been made better, with such an unorthodox application and the lining insulation, I don't know if he could have made it perfect. We had a hard time just finding someone to do it. There were a couple of very expensive companies that might have done better, but we were already way over budget with and unanticipated purchase of a range and then the cost for the metal cover. We were also thinking that after the inspection we would put some square copper arts and crafts-like screws in to hold the metal closer to the arch. I bought the screws - the screw in part is about 3/4". Now though I'm thinking that they won't really draw the metal in enough - there just isn't enough give. Oroboris - our fall back plan was to color it black or some aged copper color. I was hoping that magic marker would do it. Are you thinking that that might be a fire hazard? Spray paint will be pretty messy. I guess I'm fishing for some metal solution. Is there something flexible that we might fill that gap with? I've thought about flexible metal rods, but the top of the gap is much bigger than the sides.

I have used the waffle liner stuff, which I usually pick up at Big lots they have it in all colors, and also the sheets of foam board the real thin ones you can even get it at walmart in the crafts area. I need that drop stop so bad I have had that happen with my keys and like to never got them out of there. I was at Sears last weekend and in the tool dept they had a big display in the middle of the aisle of items that were really inexpensive and one of the items was an extend-able magnet, looked like a long pointer thing that pulls out and has a magnet on the tip. That thing definitely is in my tool box now and it was only a buck or so.

I don't think there's any magic trick or gadget that will help. Starting further down and backtacking is the answer for straight stitch, like you've been doing. For the decorative stitch, try using a small piece of folded scrap fabric, instead of paper, 100% cotton if possible, and put that in the front to get a running start. You can leave a little break between that and what you're sewing so you can cut it off the scrap off, leaving a little bit of thread. Then that little bit of thread can be folded under and tacked down with a dot of fabric glue to keep it from unraveling.

That is so fascinating! In the 1960's model, the SZ had a narrow basket next to the crisper drawers that was labelled for eggs. It held something like 20 or 30, rather than even dozens.