Absolute minimum is 5 acres, and you should expect to supplement the grass. Better would be 10-20, as that way you can have 3 or more grazing areas and change over as soom as one looks poorly, not having to wait until the initial one has re-grown. Goats like browse, so unless the trees are fairly tall, they might get eaten, and if the trunks slope they will get climbed. However, since they are something to eat - and if you fence off the trunks so the goats can't chew the bark - I would think the goats would be happy having shrubs or trees to browse on and to give shelter. Just be SURE none of them are toxic - I don't know what is bad for goats, but googling will probably bring up a list. It's almost impossible to give a hard and fast timetable for rotating - it all depends on the grass regrowth, and that depends on rain. I would say that when the one pasture is looking short - grazed down to a couple of inches, then it's time to move them. In the rapid growth periods, this may be longer than in the dryer periods. Google for rotational grazing or rotational pasture management, and I am sure you will get more details. If you get really good grass growth, you might leave one area out of the rotation and let it stockpile for haying or for winter grazing - saving on your hay bill. You will need to have a way to get water to all pastures, and, if the trees aren't thick, build some sort of shelter from wind, rain and the hottest sun. Gates need to be handy to switch pastures without escapes, and also be big enough for a tractor to bush-hog and to bring feed or fencing materials as needed. Plan accordingly.

Ah. I hadn't thought of that, as I would just cut to size. 3'3" is pretty tall for a low tunnel. Lots of extra material to purchase that would go to waste. Regardless, AIUI the Johnny's pipe bender will give you a fixed height and you'll have extra material at the end to cut - that is: if you were to bend a 10-footer with that thing your base would be wider than 6'. I suspect that the directions will tell you how long of a pipe to start with to get a 6' radius at that height (but you should make your own bender anyways). Dan

The Fernleafs need extra moisture much of the time. So you might plan to water them more often next year. If not watered, they do dry right up and disappear foliage wise. Mine were done by July the first year, brown and gone. My Fernleaf blooms first of all the Peonies, really cute to watch frilly foliage appear, bud and bloom. Mine are near some big Oaks, get shade in midday in summer. Plus Oaks may take a lot of the rain moisture, unless the fernleafs get the extra watering I do. I don't know anyone local that has Fernleafs, to see what they do in other gardens. I think the extra watering helps get them going, be larger plants faster, as well as have the foliage last until fall. For me, no Fernleaf foliage creates a big hole in the bed. Planting now should be fine. I planted mine very late in fall when I got them, had flowers the first year much to my surprise! My roots were pretty pitiful, while yours sound just great. Update us on their Spring performance.

Without having your dog right here in front of me I can't really offer good advice but the one thing I say over and over to people is to set a good example. If you want your dog to be calm, then YOU be calm. If you want your dog to be quiet then you can never raise your voice - you yelling is the same as barking. But dogs think about things differently then humans do so you'll have to learn as you go. The more you and your dog experience together the better you'll be at reading him and controlling him. Labs are usually very stable and warm natured dogs. Your more likely to have him pulling you over to meet other people rather than other dogs - but over friendliness is a problem also, just not a big one. My dog gets snarled at all the time, most often by little dogs. The owners make all sorts of justifications for it. Who knows the truth about it - it's just dogspeak, it doesn't seem to mean much to my dog and it soon settles down. My dog has also been attacked and bloodied while at the park. It looked horrible to us humans but the dogs got over it very quickly. It seemed to mean more to us than to them. I won't say they "worked it out", they seem to not like each other.. and that owner got banned from the park because of other dog owners complaints so we don't have to deal with them anymore. If you are concerned you can leave him in the car while you wait for the vet tech to assist you in bringing him in (they will understand when you tell them he is a new pet); or you can wait and go get him when they call your name; or you can wait outside the door if the waiting room is crowded. My main advice would be to NOT make a big deal out of it. Hold him by his collar if you can, keep him close to your side as you talk to the person at the desk. If you want to sit down, make him sit or lay down right in front of you or beside you. Stay as calm and still as you can. Don't talk to anyone, don't point out all the other animals, don't act differently than you do at home.. act like everything is normal and calm and that you don't even see the other animals. If he wants to sniff someone else I would stop him by pulling him by the collar away and keep him focused on your face. If all he wants to do is look around and your ok with that then let him but don't make a big deal out of it. If someone with another dog wants to allow them to interact ask them if you could take them outside to meet instead of dealing with it inside the waiting room. If they act put off just say you recently adopted him and don't know all of his quirks yet. I would not let people or children hang on him or play with him - leave that sort of stuff for the backyard or park. My dog is kinda glamorous so people often want to pet her which she loves but things do get out of control, especially with children so I make my vet appointments first thing in the morning so that I can be the first person there. One trick is to put a soft muzzle on the dogs face. Let the dog get used to it so that he looks like he wears one all the time. No one will want to bother him when he wears a muzzle. You are at a tender stage where you have to work out the details of the relationship with this new dog. Make sure he is understanding clearly what you want out of him. If not, get thee to a obedience class - it is mostly to train you how to communicate to your dog rather than the other way around.