Yeah, run some external fans. Be sure to notice, first, how the air moves when the range is cooling itself in normal use. You want to augment that air movement, not fight it, so you are moving more air more quickly. Avidchef, you are very brave. Some of us are sitting around with dirty ovens because we are still afraid to clean them. It is wise to run the self-cleaning routine a few times before the warranty runs out.

I bought an Electrolux EW30IF60ISA free standing induction range 2.5 years ago. I loved it when it was working. The cooktop recently failed (there was a loud bang as I lifted my tea kettle off the hob, and then the range displayed error code 31). I don't know what conclusion you can draw about the reliability of the brand from that, but I do think that the industry shift to 1 year warranties is a bad sign. Maybe you could glean something from comparing how much manufacturers charge for extended warranties? Anyway, the error code indicates that I need to replace the left side generator board, which costs $450. Yale Appliance (where I bought the range) charged me $99 for a service technician to come to my house and read the error code, which I had told them over the phone to begin with. When the board came in, the technician came back to my house, took off the back of the range, and pointed out that there was a scorch mark on the right side board, so I'd need to replace both. Since this was adding up to more than $1000 with labor, I decided not to do it. I have since done a little poking around, and took the back off the range myself to have a closer look. It turns out that the left side generator board is actually on the right side, but that the board with the scorch mark is actually the filter board (whatever that is), which sits below the generator board. I'm going to try replacing that myself, since at this point I don't trust the service from Yale. Anyway, I'm not too happy with Electrolux right now. I think they ought to have longer warranties on these appliances, and design and build them so that they won't need to be repaired. But I suspect that all the other manufacturers have similar quality issues, so I don't know what advice to give.

We love this range.... & would buy it again! As with every new appliance, there are new things to become familiar with.... the induction cooktop is very straight-forward (and we had used an induction plate prior to buying this range, so induction wasn't a new concept to us), but the oven seems to maintain more humidity than my old one, but I have learned to use convection more since I last posted... so for things that i want a drier or crisper result, I use the convection option, or open the door a bit to let the extra moisture/steam out. I haven't found it takes noticeably longer to preheat than my old self-cleaning oven, but I see others have complained of this. The oven interior is slightly smaller than my old one, but I've gotten used to that, too, now. I recently used the bread-proof setting which worked like a charm. If I had a wish list, I would put a small hob at the front, since I use the small hobs a lot, and if you are stirring or tending the pot, it is nice not to have to reach back quite so far for an extended period of time. There weren't many choices available in my region when I bought this range. It was either this one or a GE cafe induction range. I'm sure there are more to choose from now, but I'm better with fewer choices, otherwise I'd never be able to make up my mind! Wait for the big sales if you can... stores sells these for $1000 - $1500 off the regular price, & I've seen these big appliance sales more than once each year.

You could always slide something non flammable and relatively insulating under there. For example, MSC sells carbon fiber welding blankets that are less than a quarter of an inch thick that will minimize heat transfer and not be a hazard at any temperature the oven can induce. (I temporarily put down large sized ones in front of a rarely run fireplace to protect an oriental carpet from any errant sparks.) If the oven expects air to flow under there, then care has to be taken to not bunch up the material such as to block the air path. The old asbestos cement sheets would have worked (with some deficiencies), and there could be ceramic fiber versions of that material available. Even the cement board used under tile installations could be considered for this purpose and easily obtained. kas