Vinyl shoe molding (or at least quarter round) is available. It's grouped together in the stores with PVC molding for garages. You can paint it any color you like. Thought truthfully, unless you're doing tons of splashing, or taking long steam showers with the door closed, painted wood baseboards/shoe molding should be fine. We've got them in all our bathrooms. And think about it: your vanities are made of wood. So it's not taboo in the bathroom.

I'm not sure how much that really would save you. Roof is still the same etc. and adding the deck on that side will offset some of the savings. How much do you need to save and what type of finishes are you planning on using? Maybe we can help you save what you need without cutting sq ft that would be more expensive to do later on? Of course we'd need to know what your finishes are. Consider the following too as they are easy to upgrade later. - Builder's grade carpet and then you can upgrade later. First price the difference, but from what I saw when selling my house and replacing the bedroom carpet with builder's grade vs. better quality it was almost half the cost. I would consider this a shorter term thing though. - hollow core doors (I replaced all doors at my old house by myself) - drywall around windows (trim can be added later - I DIY'd this at my old house) - laminate counters instead of granite in kitchen - laminate or cultured marble in baths - standard toilets with 4" glazed traps and not the more expensive like Toto's. Toilets are real easy to replace. - light fixtures - faucets (just pick something that works for the number of holes you want in the end) - One piece trims and not built up styles in paint grade - cheaper price on material and installation wise. Easily replaced later too. I re-did my old house as I didn't like the thin ranch moldings. - vinyl floors (not the expensive kinds) or a lower grade laminate instead of tile or hardwood in baths/laundry/kitchen. There are lots more, but we followed several of these for ours.

If the foyer is a smaller area that OPENS UP into a larger space, then you will want to drop the t-mold in at a natural spot...like the area where the walls make a corner...something natural like that. And Sophie is correct. A 58ft long room is extremely rare without posts of some kind (we've seen expanses like this...but the metal GIRDERS that hold up the ceiling are normally outside the realm of reality for the regular house owner...WAAAAAAY too expensive for a regular house). If your space has posts or something like it (or narrow openings like kitchen breezeways, etc) then you drop in the moldings in between the two areas. OR...you GLUE DOWN the vinyl (not all vinyl is allowed to be glued) and pay the BIG price difference in materials and subfloor preparation and labour. A commercial grade vinyl floor can go hundreds of linear feet without a break. Walmart is a great example of this. But to get this done you need the RIGHT material installed by the RIGHT professional using the RIGHT preparation and the RIGHT adhesives. Whew. Some fun huh?

It's a badly caulked joint: uneven and grit embedded in it from the beginning. That discoloration could also be from minerals left from the evaporation of stray urine. If it were me I'd use a razor blade to remove all the caulking (carefully so you don't damage the floor), and then re-caulk. Best practice is to caulk the sides and front, but leave the back open so that, if you have a leak, it's obvious. You might want to wait a couple of days after removing the caulk to see if any water comes out at the base of the toilet.