Same as Bill. I know guys that love it and I know guys that hate it. Personally I'll not ever use it. That doesn't mean that it's bad, it's just because for the most part I'm a deck mud (preslope) and Kerdi (over cement board) guy. As far as foam boards go, Wedi to me is superior to Custom's EasyBoard. Wedi is extruded vs EasyBoard being expanded, so wedi has better structure and a better perm rating. I'd have to look at their installation instructions to see what type of thinset is recommended, but if modified is allowed I'd use a white modified thinset. Mongo

Two comments-- First, I don't know that I'd trust tile to be installed that's been sealed on the backs of the tile, where the thinset's supposed to bond. On the edges, it's not so important, as there's no stress whatsoever on the grout. On the thinset bond, there IS a mild amount of stress, and if you don't have the strength of bond, or if the sealer should let go after a time, the thinset's only going to stick to what it's stuck to, in this case, that being the sealer. Carrara's not that super absorbent where you need to worry about sealing it prior to grouting. It won't "suck" the grout in like some tumbled stones will. Secondly, I've used the tile-ready shower pans, and they're a royal pain in the.... neck! Unless the walls are framed around the pan, it'll never perfectly line up with the cement board above it, and then you have humps in the walls where the two meet.

I've never done a steam shower in a tub setting. Commercial all-in-one units are available, so it's not that it's uncommon or impossible, but some considerations: You need a rock-solid vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling, and it'll need to be sealed to the tub's flange with a caulk/sealant. Now for steam showers all I've ever used for the past 10 years is Kerdi membrane. It prevents moisture from penetrating deep into the walls. Although you can put Kerdi over drywall, for a steam shower I'd use a cement board like Durock or Wonderboard. Cement board the walls and ceiling, and Kerdi the walls and ceiling. So, from the studs "in" I'd have cement backer board, then Kerdi (sealed to the tub's flange), then thinset and tile. Latex-modified thinset, no mastic. You don't want steam penetrating past the tub/tile and into your walls, so where your plumbing penetrates the walls seal the Kerdi to the shower head arm. Seal the Kerdi behind the valve assembly. Where you tub drain open/close valve is n the tub wall, you'll want to fashion a piece of Kerdi to seal that as well. Getting in and out of the tub? Your door will need a seal on it to keep the steam within the tub enclosure. The steam generator outlet is usually set down low on a wall, sometimes under a bench. The reason is that steam rises, and the outlet gets hot, so placing it under a bench is a good place to hide it. You don't have that option with a tub, so you'll want to place the steam outlet where it doesn't become a burn center. A plus is you can have the steam generator right below the tub, accessible via a panel in the tub apron. Just some quick considerations off the top of my head, I'm sure others will have point-counterpoints to follow. Mongo

Joe, do you need a tub? Or would a walk-in or roll-in shower work best? I'm in agreement with wisco-girl. I just did a shower for an MS customer about 3 months ago. A couple of items while I await your response, and these are geared towards a fully accessible roll-in shower: 1) Use a movable seat instead of a built-in bench inside the shower. 2) Grab bar guidance can be found on ADA sites. You can shuffle the locations slightly depending on your shower configuration and your wife's abilities, but their recommended locations are pretty good. 3) For the shower head, have a hand-held unit on a bar. Most bars are not certified for grab bar use, but there are units that are. I used an Alsons ADA handheld. Looks nice, and the vertical bar is an actual grab bar and the height adjustment is an easily manipulated lever. Use the longest hose you can find. 4) If the grab bars will not be screwed directly into a wall stud or solid 2-by blocking installed between the studs, I prefer to use "Wing-It" anchors. I can do chin-ups on those things. Kerdi? From the studs to tile, you're looking at: a) drywall or cement board, the seams between panels do not have to be thinsetted or taped. I personally prefer cement board (wonderboard or durock) but you can use regular old drywall. If using drywall I recommend 5/8" drywall. b) thinset and Kerdi over the drywall or cement board c) thinset and tile over the Kerdi d) grout With accessible showers, I recommend a deck mud base versus the Kerdi foam trays. You can use the foam tray, I simply find deck mud easier to shape to the shower sizes that I build. If a deck mud base, I staple plastic sheeting to the floor. Then set expanded metal lathe over the plastic and tack it in place, just enough so it doesn't flop around. Pack deck mud and set the drain, with the proper slope (1/4" per foot usually) from the walls to the drain. Once the deck mud has cured, Kerdi over it, then tile. If using a Kerdi Foam tray, thinset the tray to the floor, then kerdi over the tray. Easy. Here's a Kerdi thread from a few years ago. This is Kerdi over cement board on the walls, and Kerdi over sloped deck mud on the floor. Might not be the same methods you chose to use, but it shows a few techniques. Lastly, the curb. you need 2" of vertical drop from the top of the curb to the shower drain. Floor pitch needs to be between 1/4" per foot and 1/2" per foot. You can usually get an inch or so simply from the sloped shower floor. So you may still need an inch or so of elevation at the shower threshold. You can do a standard curb with square edges, or a roll-over hump. The hump is sort of like a speedbump. An inch or so of vertical over several inches of horizontal, gentle enough to roll over in a wheelchair is need be. There are also flexible "pop-up" curbs that can be glued to the tile at the threshold. They stick up a couple of inches, and being made out of flexible material they can be rolled right over. I'm not sure of their durability. Anyhow Joe, more than you asked for. And you thought YOUR post was long. lol Oh, and for grab bars, etc, look at a website called "grab bar specialists."