So after reading all these comments I feel compelled to chime in as it seems a lot of people are lost on the process of installing an IKEA OTR microwave, or a different brand OTR microwave with the IKEA 15" deep cabinets. I've installed several IKEA kitchens myself, and am in fact installing another right now. Here are some general tips when installing ikea cabinets. Disclaimer: I do not post this information in a professional capacity. I have not personally seen your space or know the intricate specifics of the problem you may be seeking an answer to when reading this, so take it as a well meaning stranger with some experience with IKEA kitchens just trying to be helpful and hoping to offer some tips and ideas in regards to IKEA kitchens and how I understand OTR microwaves are installed in IKEA kitchens. 1.) Never install an ikea upper or lower flat against any side wall, always calculate in room for a filler piece. I believe IKEA recommends 2" minimum gap to be filled with a filler piece to allow all doors/drawers room to open without hitting/scraping the wall/trim. I say 2" is way too much, I think a MINIMUM is more like 3/4." I have personally used 3/4" on jobs where space is at a premium and with great results, but I prefer to leave room for a 1.5 inch filler piece anytime I have a cabinet against a wall. It just makes it easy to use a scrap 2x4 behind the filler piece to support and attach it to, and easy to screw the cabinet itself into the 2x4 to make it solid against the wall. A 1.5" filler gap is also plenty of room to clear any casings/moldings/trim around doors or opening that may be in the opening zone of a drawer, and it's also plenty of room for a hand to comfortably fit behind the door pull/knob when opening an upper without smacking your hand against the wall. 2.) Don't forget to calculate in 1/2 for a full cover panel on any exposed side of a cabinet. This includes on each side of the 30" above the range microwave just in case at some point you or the next person decide to remove the OTR microwave and replace with a vent hood. I also do cover panels on either side of the range itself that go almost all the way to the floor so it lines up with the cover panels on the upper cabinets, but also so I have an easy termination point for my IKEA toe kick and i don't have to deal with a 90 degree return that never looks right in my opinion. I leave about a 16th of an inch between the cover panel and the floor. Finished end goes down, cut end goes up, coated in a thin layer of silicone to seal it (or sprayed with some canned shellac if I have it), and hid under the countertop and further caulked with sleek bead of silicone. 3.) Random stuff: The back of IKEA cabinets do not sit flush against the wall, the backer panel sits about 1\4" off the back of the wall, so if you are installing any outlets inside a cabinet (like for the OTR microwave), remember to have your electrician extend your box out an extra 1/4" beyond the Sheetrock or you will have to use box extenders. Cover panels for tall cabinets are not 1/2", they are 3/4" thick, so remember to account for that.Installing IKEA cabinets in anyway other than the method they provide (such as using 2x4 and plywood bases instead of their plastic legs) will void your warranty. Just food for thought. So, now to the over the range microwave. Installing a OTR Microwave in an IKEA kitchen Microwaves sold from IKEA are designed to be used with the "NYTTIG Back filler piece" (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/nyttig-back-filler-piece-for-over-the-range-micro-hood-10536505/), as well as the "NYTTIG Filler piece" (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/nyttig-filler-piece-f-over-the-range-micro-00531235/). Why IKEA named them almost the exact same thing I'll never understand, but they are indeed two different pieces. There are also SIX other NYTTIG named pieces, so make sure you're getting the right ones. NYTTIG Back filler piece The NYTTIG Back filler piece is a 2" deep ALL METAL bracket that gets screwed into the WALL behind the microwave. It has several lips that catch and slip into the back of the microwave to support it from underneath. If you've ever installed another brand of OTR microwave, you've seen a flat bracket like this before, but IKEA's bracket pushes the microwave out about 2" to clear the 15" deep cabinet and doors. This NYTTIG Back filler piece bracket is sold separately and is only for use with IKEA OTR microwaves, it will not fit another brand like Samsung or GE. GE sells a similar bracket for their microwaves to be installed with 15" deep cabinets, but it's $75 as opposed to Ikea's $29. You can find it here ---> https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Over-the-range-Microwave-Mounting-Kit-White/999910087 NYTTIG Filler pieceThe NYTTIG Filler piece is a particleboard, melamine foil, and plastic edging filler piece designed to be installed UNDER the upper cabinet between the cabinet and the OTR microwave. It's essentially a spacer, that's all. I haven't discovered the exact reason for it's use, but I suspect it either has to do with bringing the hanging height of the microwave down 3/4" so it sits below the bottom of the upper cabinets, or has to do with reinforcing the bottom of the upper cabinet to support the weight of the microwave, or maybe since IKEA cabinets lack the thickness of traditional face frames on traditional cabinets it's just to eat up space so the they don't have to make shorter bolts to include with the microwave. (Two long bolts and washers go through the upper cabinet down into the microwave to hold the microwave up over the range.) From reading comments I think one person unfortunately installed the NYTTIG Filler piece in place of the NYTTIG Back filler piece, which is why their microwave door wouldn't clear the cabinets. It's been a few years since that comment, but I would definitely hope the person rectified the situation as having a combustible material directly above the stove isn't safe. Please replace with the correct NYTTIG Back filler piece. Installing a non-IKEA brand Microwave in an IKEA kitchen with 15" deep CabinetsIf you choose to install a non-IKEA microwave in your IKEA kitchen you will have to inquire with your microwave brand's customer service to see if they make a special bracket for installing the microwave with 15" deep upper cabinets. As I stated above, GE does makes such a bracket for use with their microwaves. Here is the link again ---> https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Over-the-range-Microwave-Mounting-Kit-White/999910087If your brand does not sell such a bracket, then you will have to be creative with the bracket it does come with. Here are some ideas: Before you go crafting a custom filler piece, buy an IKEA NYTTIG Back filler piece and just see if by some stroke of luck it will fit your microwave. You may have to alter it a little by grinding off a lip or two that doesn't line up, but if it works it'll save you a lot of work. Another idea with the IKEA NYTTIG Back filler piece since the bottom is solid metal you could simply bend back the lips so they are out of the way, or cut them off completely, then cut a piece of wood to fit inside the NYTTIG bracket and attach your microwaves bracket to that, then attaching the whole thing to the wall with long screws through the wood into the studs in the wall. Make a heat-tolerant spacer to attach your flat microwave bracket to by slightly shaving down a 2x4 to fit inside of a metal 2x4 to protect it from heat. Painting it with high heat paint to match your cabinets or microwave is a possible decorative touch. Buy a rectangular steel tube from your local metal supply, or from eBay; such as this one ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/224594151764 and cut it down to 30", paint it your desired color with high heat spray paint, or leave it raw, then screw it to the wall first, then screw your microwave bracket into it using appropriate length self tapping metal screws, or pre-drill your holes and use regular screws long enough to sufficiently penetrate into the 2x4 behind the wall. Just some ideas. I made some visual aids, hope this helps somebody who reads it!

I have a similar question but it relates to the diverter tub spout. I have a Brizo/Delta multi choice shower tub rough-in valve but having a lot of trouble with the Brizo diverter tub spout. Can I use a Kohler diverter tub spout with the same valve? The spout I have now is a pull up diverter and the Kohler is also a pull up diverter. Just that their diverter handle is at the front of the spout and the Brizo spout I have has the handle in the back. the only thing that connects the valve to the spout is the pipe so I think it would work? And the reason I want to do this is because the distance of the pipe from the valve to the pipe for the spout is 7" and Brizo requires 8" and was told the reason the spout is leaking in the back. Kohler calls for 7" min so thinking it would solve the problem if it will work with the Delta/Brizo rough-in valve.

That's why I said depending on where you live. Nieman Marcus and Bloomingdale's are still here, with a number of stores in the area (around here, half an hour driving barely gets you anywhere, so by ’area’ I mean within 90 minutes normal traffic), and last I checked both had nice linens departments. Those would be good to check online as well. For both blankets and pots. There might even be a sale, Maybe do some pre-shopping online for the pots at W-S, Sur La Table and Zwilling, too, to get .an idea of what looks like contenders, and what the prices are. The first two have stores, though maybe not near you. Schweitzer Linen has very high end things like Italian linens and cashmere blankets, as well as more moderate ones. Their stores are only in Manhattan, but they've been doing catalog for a long time, and have a website. You can also call. I think they have more than what's shown, A couple of years ago, my favorite comforter was ruined. I looked all over, but it was an old fashioned dacron comforter. I can't have any kind of down or feather, and hate ”down alternative” with a passion. What I finally found was a moderate quality (and price) silk lined cotton at Vermont Country Store catalog. They do not have generous return policies (i.e., you pay the shipping) but I spoke to a very helpful customer service agent and thought it sounded worth the hassel. I really like it. Which is why I say, if you want something specific that they might just not have in the local stores, shopping online can really be worthwhile, even if it's not the way you want to do it,

Note: Because houzz lacks "shift-enter" therefore the below is awkward. I was trying to explain things step by step, but the lack of shift-enter makes it weird. XenForo forums are much more intuitive in that respect. Thanks again! Re: Epoxies, at HomeDepot where you get free shipping, the E6000 jewelry epoxy only comes by the case. Also thanks for the idea about boot dryers, but it was hard to decide which to buy after much research. The Peet is on the high end, and some others seemed like they might suffice. Hey, maybe i can even hack my Nesco dehydrator bought many years ago... BTW it may interest that you can "hack" a Jumbo Binder Clip along with a wire hanger to hang each pair of boots you have on a closet rod. To answer your Q: I found around the house 32 oz. Klean Strip odorless surface-prep mineral spirits. There's a bit left in the bottle. (It used to come in a translucent bottle - its that which i found) Is that safe for Eva foam? Does anyone here know? Meanwhile my 2nd round of SuperTite-Gel broke apart too. Maybe i poured on too much baking-soda. So I think i'll borrow a hinge from an upper wall cabinet for the problem-cabinet. And Hypothetically (to attach to the wall cabinet) i can then: Possibly try the liquid-version Loctite (which i bought to replace SuperTite). I can cut-to-size a piece from spare metal-screening which i found in house. Then glue the screening to 1950s hinge to sandwich between hinge and door. I also found a butt hinge in house (see my below attachment) I can glue it to the other side (which would face items stored in cabinet). Unfortunately i don't have extensive drill bits, especially for metal, and its hard to drill! I also don't have metal strips in that small size either. I do have aluminum cut from disposable foil-pan. Would that work?