Thanks for all the replies! This is our first house, not our "forever" house. We are planning to finish the bath update so we can put our house on the market within the next 8-10 months. Then hopefully we'll be in our "forever" (or at least for a long time) house. :) The tub in the master is somekind of old, original cast iron tub. So I know it will be a pain in the butt for our GC to remove! I'm not much of a bath person except for occasionally, but my hubby likes to take them a little more than occasionally. Really this update is to make our home more attractive to potential buyers and hopefully secure us a fast sale. The master is one of the only things we haven't updated in our home, and we're not planning on spending a fortune. What I DON'T want to do is spend this amt of money period, and then wish I had done the tub. It's in really good condition, but it's so narrow and shallow. I wanted to potentially put in a deeper, wider one, but the walls are an issue. The non-plumbing side is my husband's closet, which is the same size as mine (not very big, but a "walk in," which is the plumbing side.) Moving a wall is an expense I'm not willing to undertake, so that's why I was wondering if we could hack into the wall just a bit where the tub is against my husband's closet. I havent talked about this with my GC yet. I'll do that this week. But y'all have seen that done?? Removing the tub and taking the time/money/effort to create a big walk-in shower is not what I wanted to do. We do have another tub in the hall bath, but not having a tub in the master might make someone not want our house. It's all about resale at this point! At the lowest remodel cost. :)

I have to start with the tub apron itself. I don't like anything that has to do with the picture frame molding on the tub apron. I don't get the frame that runs off the right side of the tub apron and behind the side fo the vanity. I understand that the wall continues off behind the vanity. I just don't get the trim layout and the 1-1/2 frames that cover the tub apron. With that in mind, I'd want the frames on the tub's back wall to mimic, or at least try to relate to, the frames on the tub apron. They don't. Not even close. A single large frame on the back wall. 1-1/2 frames on the tub's apron. To keep the frames on the back wall at a minimum I'd want a chair rail on the left and back tub walls and I'd want to paint the chair rail and everything below it white. Good luck with it.

Much will depend on what kind of caulk was used. If the caulk is silicone, it needs to be removed, area cleaned good with bleach, etc. and then new caulk. If it is a porous type grout, it is possible bleach will kill the mold. A fan blowing in the bathroom aimed at shower/bath tub after use will reduce growth of mold. Mold loves warmth and moisture.

My Ultra Bain air tub looks similar. Has raised area at the, er, rear. Has arm rests and handles and a head rest. It's acrylic and heated. I chose mine to fit *me*, since DH prefers a shower. I was able to 'try one on' in a plumbing company's showroom. I wanted to be able to brace my feet so I wouldn't just slip right down underwater. I also wanted something that would fill in a short time. (We have a whirlpool tub that I never use because it takes ages to fill.) My tub is 14 years old. Zero problems. Easy to clean. Air tubs 'blow out' remaining water a few minutes after you exit them so there is no mold forming in the tubing. I have a regular fill faucet and a spray rinse on a diverter.