Current feedback on Ikea appliances?
smaloney
12 years ago
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jakkom
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Ikea cabinets-would love some feedback...
Comments (8)IKEA in my last home: This photo is of a 7 year old kitchen, the door style is no longer available. The kitchen was tiny, 9' wide by about 11' that I opened into a dining room to make it more functional. The ceiling was slightly less than 8' in some areas, very sloped, and as you can see, the uppers went within an inch or two to the ceiling. I set the bases higher than usual, and the space under the cabinets after 2" light molding was about 17" which was adequate, but not generous. It was a very functional layout, I cooked and baked several times a week, and the cabinets interiors were pristine when I sold the house. No failed hardware, no chipped laminate inside the cabinet boxes where pots/pans/knives were stored and I never lined a shelf or a drawer in this kitchen. The shelf where I stored oils cleaned up with soap and water with no residual yellowing or gumminess. Cabinet fronts had a tough baked on finish that cleaned with soap and water, or BONA finished wood spray and a towel and were not streaky. The cabinet doors did occasionally scratch, though not in a way that was not to be expected from wood, and I tried several brands of brown children's markers and found the brand that matched best, and kept a few in one of the cabinets so when I cleaned and noticed a scratch, I could fill it in. Though I did use the 39" uppers, you should know that I rarely used the things stored on the highest shelves and didn't really know what was on some shelves until I moved because the shelves were too high for me, or my over 6' relatives without using a chair. I was mounting to old cracking plaster with irregularly spaced studs on a very sloped floor so I screwed a leveled 2x4 to the bottom of the wall where the bottom of the base boxes were to rest, and a 1x4 behind where the top of the base boxes were to be and used the IKEA provided screws to mount the base box brackets to the 1x4. It was very sturdy when done and the granite guys were appreciative and had no issues with installation. The cabinets are trimmed out in standard end panels, and the peninsula has a 3'x8' panel trimmed to cover it. The store associates drew pictures for me to show me how to use the trim they provided. I had a miter saw that I rented for the day for the light rail, and used a jigsaw for the rest with a laminate blade and masking tape to prevent pulling the veneer off when cutting. What is different today compared to when I bought the 2004 kitchen is the boxes above were made in Germany and now they are made in the US. I put in IKEA boxes in my new house and the quality is the same, as far as I can see. The door fronts above were made in Spain and now they are made in the US. The hinges and drawer hardware are still German Blum, but now soft close is included in the price, though you can purchase the soft close pieces separately, and take them off your order if you wish. The new version of the lazy susan is an improvement over the old one. I loved the appearance of the slim door pulls visually, but functionally, the ends were square and things used to get caught on them as I went by, but that is not an IKEA issue, per se. IKEA 39 CABINETS ARE 39 1/8. If you ceilings are 92 and you are set on 39, you can fudge the bases down a bit and still have 17" below uppers to the counter tops. As long as you guys aren't tall, you maybe ok with this as most appliances are under 16. I do not recommend this, I would personally go with the 30" boxes mounted higher and then extend the molding to the ceiling, I think this would give the room more visual height, but there are designers on this site that could give you the best insight for how to do this. I have had three IKEA kitchens now with various levels of customization, and I would say that if you can use the boxes they have, it is the best deal, and if you can find a door front you like, the deal gets even better. There are enough panel sizes available to customize with....See MoreFeedback on my appliance selection please!
Comments (11)I've got the full depth KA Architect II FD refrigerator. Lovely unit with beautiful interior. I recessed the space behind the wall to create a faux integrated look without losing the storage capacity. It has a triple drawer feature in the freezer that makes the freezer really useful. Take a look at the Bosch DW. I've had many through the years at various homes. Never a moments trouble. I've had them at all price points. I can recommend them. Your ventilation will be a little more problematic. You absolutely install proper ventilation to the outside. You should get rid of that microwave above the stove. You should not vent into the porch. That's a code issue. It must vent above the porch. You should talk to someone about it before you make any decisions. This way you can plan for ventilation. It's better to install your warming drawer close to the surface where you plate the food. This may not be the stove top. I suggest you consider nearby cabinets, too. The kitchen forum can help you with placement....See MoreISO feedback: stacked cab proportions, appliance placement, design etc
Comments (25)We are in the middle of a kitchen remodel of similar proportions and budget, BUT we are able to do a lot of the work ourselves so our costs for wall repair and floor refinishing and levelung are very minimal. We also have plumbers in our family and saved a couple thousand there. We saved another couple thousand because we know a licenced electrician who was willing to do our work as a side job. Our $25,000 kitchen remodel should have cost us closer to $30-35,000. We had a window made smaller, that cost $1200 for window and install (does not include interior wall repair and finish as we will do that). Making a bigger window requires more work (headers) and will cost closer to $2000 with intall. We found it was cheaper to have a local cabinet maker make our cabinets, plus he was able to come and measure and adjust the plan and he will intall and actually scribe the end cabs to fit against our plaster walls. It ends up being cheaper because whereas Lowes has stack boxes, the custom can build the boxes to the required size which depending on the design can be way more efficient. Our cabinet quote from Home Depot was $20,000 ($15,000 with discounts) Our cabinet quote from the local custom was $12,000 and the install is only $1200. Hope this helps! Also, I like the looks of the area with the fridge and I see what you are going for visually, but my first thought was also "that fridge door is too close to the wall and won't open!"....See MoreLooking for feedback on IKEA kitchen plan for new construction
Comments (33)I'm a DIYer and am all for customizing Ikea as long as it doesn't end up costing more. The ease of installation of the drawer system is one of the draws. Replacing the interior and fittings would drive the cost up tremendously especially since most want all drawer kitchens. If I were concerned with lost interior space in drawers I'd definitely price out a custom kitchen and compare costs to the Ikea kitchen with drawer modifications. Both trash/recycle hacks I posted above I did with all Ikea parts. I did not have to purchase an additional insert system. An island can be configured to many different depths without cutting down cabinets. Add a 9", 12", 15", etc to the sides of the 24" with the large panels on the long end and you can attain many different depths (33", 36", 39"... -not including counter overhang). Yes, if a person must have exactly 36" and back to back, you'd have to customize. All depends on how much you want to spend. I use the rail system for mounting, except for islands and special circumstances. The feet aren't for support but do make fine tuning the leveling quite easy. Also, the toekick snaps onto the feet. Sometime I use Ikea toekick, other times I use base moulding or a combination. The bottom line is to be careful with your labor and material quotes for the custom work if you aren't doing it yourself as it can drive the price of an Ikea kitchen up tremendously. With careful planning you'll be able to have the kitchen you want without too many expensive changes since you're trying to save money. The easy hacks I've done and see called for frequently that aren't widely known are the trash/recycle pullouts, pulling the fridge cab forward and using a larger side panel for full depth fridges, alternate ideas for microwave spaces, installing a non-Ikea farm sink, adding drawers to pullouts and pantries beyond their suggested configs, and using kitchen cabs in other spaces. Buehl's FAQ thread is a compilation of these and many others....See Moresmaloney
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoFori
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoFori
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agowritersblock (9b/10a)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agosmaloney
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agotypesomethingwitty
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agotypesomethingwitty
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agosmaloney
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidro1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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