You didn't say what type of stone your border is, and I'm not sure if it's in the bath area or on the floor, so I'll just tell you what we did, and show you a picture. Hopefully that will help you. I had read from the pros in the forum, that Miracle 511 worked well, so that's what we used. I bought the enhancer/sealer as well as just the sealer impregnator. I called the Miracle 511 customer service and was told we could enhance and then seal, but not seal and then enhance. So before grouting, we applied a coat of the sealer/enhancer and then grouted. Our tile guy did NOT clean the tiles thoroughly enought and grout got caught in the clefts, which he cleaned off, then we applied a 2nd coat of enhancer sealer and 2 or 3 coats of sealer impregnator after that in the shower. You can also find alot of additional information about the process by doing a search or posting your question at johnbridges.com. here is a picture of our enhanced stone:

If you paid $ 7K for a B-Y sofa, someone took you to the cleaners and back again. You overpaid by double for any sofa in the line. I've been a B-Y dealer for over 30 years, and quite honestly there's a lot of bad information in the above threads. I have very few issues with B-Y, it's made in the USA and they back their product well. While its not at the level of Hancock and Moore, it's not H&M price points, either. Most people don't know this, but the single largest cost in making a leather sofa is the hide itself, and B-Y uses good leathers, same as Hancock and Moore. The second largest cost factor is the foam (not the frame as everything thinks). Here's where premium lines like H&M excel, they use the best foam and lots of it in places where B-Y skimps, the back panels, side panels, arm caps, etc. Third is the frame, B-Y is an all-plywood line, H&M is a mix of plywoods in motion pieces, and still uses solid hardwood in stationary. Finally labor, and here H&M does detail tailoring that you won't find on B-Y, not even close. Myself? I buy Hancock and Moore for my home. If you are buying leather motion furniture, the most important elements for longevity are the quality of the leather itself (should be all top-grain, no bonded, no bi-cast, no splits, no vinyl combos) and the mechanism itself. Mechs should only be either Leggett and Platt or Ultra-Mek, and both are marked with a label on the mechanism itself when you extend it. Here's what their labels look like on the mechs, the L&P label is the lower one. .

I think I'm paying NYC prices in Minnesota but didn't know that until I discovered this website! My granite was considered a middle price granite but it still cost $84 a square foot, which I think is a high end price. The sub contractor doing our backsplash also did our granite. Our cabinets, which have been done in hickory, cost about $18,000. I'm not sure if that's high or not. Our KC has a good reputation but I've noticed there's a crack in the wood of the island and a hole where one of the knots fell out during the granite installation. This is our first kitchen remodel and I'm not sure if that should be acceptable or not??

A lot of time, basic 6x6's will come with tile lugs that create a predetermined spacing for the tile. You need to find out if the tile you are interested in has that. If not, then remember that the thinner the grout lines, the less wavy your wall has to be or else you will have problems. If you are doing this from the studs out as new construction, then be sure that you use a long enough level to check to be sure that all of the studs are plumb and they are all perfectly in line. If one is off, it will throw off your whole tile spacing if you are planning on thin grout lines. Thicker grout lines are always more forgiving for a novice tiler.