I am getting dangerously close to ordering a 30" RNB and am looking for some advice... 1. burner placement--is it better to have one 22k burner in the back instead of both in front? Scorching shouldn't be a problem because the range will be 5-6" from the backsplash (which will be fireproof if it ends up close enough to be necessary). 2. ventilation--we can only go 30" wide but can do 27" deep IF we can find an appropriate hood. It does need to be under and in-between cabinets. VentaHood seems to have some, 18" high, that go up to 600 CFM. Is 600 enough? Are there other brands with lower profiles? I assume a 19" deep hood would be inadequate, even with 600 CFM. Would it be OK for most cooking though? (There's a nice selection of 9" and under models, but they don't go out to 24+"). If I put both 22k burners in back and get a ~20" deep hood, could that be mostly OK? If I could pull off a compromise with the spouse that would involve a 36" wide hood, but only 20" deep, would that be approximately as good as 30" wide and 24" deep? (I might be able to pull this off for 2 reasons--first, the 20" deep one would have more reachable storage above that would partially replace the cabinet space lost because we could get a shorter hood and second, the shorter hood would not be as visually overpowering as the 18" tall one in a 36" width. It's a small room.) Are there other cabinet-compatible brands that are as good as VAH that have 30" wide, 27" deep hoods, preferably shorter than 18" tall? I haven't been able to locate any, but they must be out there! 3. Any potential issues to to having the range not quite against a wall but instead tucked into a 30" deep counter with island trim and an appropriately mounted hood? 4. Where the heck can I get an RAL color chart? The local shop is more than happy to sell me the appliance but won't loan me their color book--not even long enough to run to the hardware store to make my own book. Not sure I'm making sense here....but thanks for trying! :D

When I read your original post, I thought it would be difficult to strip that screw. The main things are that you need a very-skinny and long flat blade screwdriver and maybe some rubber gloves (to get the knob off). I have a jeweler's screwdriver and one other that will reach back in there to make the adjustment. You have to hold onto the stem while adjusting to make sure it doesn't turn. I just use my hand, but I guess pliers with maybe covers for the jaws or a towel to protect the stem would also do the trick. I found that my new (aftermarket) igniters helped with adjusting the low level on the burners. The bigger sensor surface of the Viking igniters seems more sensitive than the single-wire from BS. I also had a little bit of a casting problem with 1 22k burner. The spot where the igniter sits had a little slop that kept the igniter from sitting as close to the burner holes as it should. I lived with it for years, but finally filed it off when I replaced the igniters. Now both of the big burners turn way down.

It's been a long time since I thought about this. I was having an issue recently that I think was probably just water in an igniter (overflow or from a pot put back on the stove to dry after cleaning). I'd been meaning to check back and remind myself what I did and maybe update if I change something out. I did notice that the screws attaching the igniters were pretty corroded. That may have been a bad material choice on my part. My quick and dirty troubleshooting would be to trade igniters from a working burner to a nonworking burner to decide between module and igniter. If the same burner still doesn't work, you might also check out the wiring to see if it's been pinched or otherwise has a problem. That's my mute-the-work-conference-call-and-type-real-quick response.

Found alternative solution. Less than half the price of the knock off ones being sold on ebay and a fraction of Bluestar OEM part price. This is the part that will work with modifications. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028S3T4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the parts side by side....very much different. I found this part on a post years ago and gave it a try. Follow my instructions and you can do it. A bit difficult, but worth it. The other ones will be a breeze after going through this figuring out on my own. 1) Take your bad ignitor and bust it apart with a hammer on both ceramic ends. The small mounting tab will break off. Save the tab and clip the ignitor wire off. 2) This is the mounting tab you will need. 3) Put the mounting tab in a vise and drill out the opening to fit the new ignitor threaded base. The metal is very hard, be patient. I had to angle the bit and work it some to open it up. Just widen it enought that the mounting tab can slide down the threaded base. 4) Next, take one of the 2 nuts that came with the ignitor and use a grinding wheel and take a side down as shown in the photo. Confusing, but the base of the threaded portion is wider than the OEM ignitor, so to get this to work, it needs to be shaven down, otherwise you cannot secure the ignitor with 2 nuts to hold it into place on the tab. This shaven down one goes on top. The nut has enough meat on it to adequately hold the ignitor in place just fine. 5) Here is the finished product....see the shaven down nut....this avoids it hitting the burner and making it cocked out on an angle. I will not fit correctly. If you do not do this, any option would be to fabricate a new mounting tab that is longer so it clears the burner using both nuts unmodified. 6) The wire connector is different. I clipped the OEM wire and used a butt connector to the new wire after removing its plug. The wire is very long, so you can trim down quite a bit to match the lenght of the OEM wire. 7) Here is the new ignitor attached to the burner. NOTE: On all my burners I removed the OEM screws and use all key stainless steel bolts. This is the bomb and a MUST do to all your ignitors. Take you screw or burned to a good old school hardware store and get some. Makes all the difference and you will NEVER have a stuck screw again. If you cannot get your screw out...spray some rust cutter on them and use a vise grip to grab the screw, will come right out. As you can see, the one nut does not need to be modified because it can fit in place fine. The allen screw bolt head is small giving it that extra room also. As mentioned, the other nut needs to be shaved down. 8) View form the burner after in the range again. Items not mentioned.....the wire tip on the burner is very much different and longer. You need to be careful and plan out how long and where to bend. The metal is very hard, use 2 needle know plier to bend. Be careful not to damage the ceramic. One good thing, the metal thread base allows you to move the ignitor up and down to fine tune it placement. My first try, the tip was too high so it did not make any spark (could not jump that far and get to ground). So I lowered the ignitor and it work better than the OEM ignitor, went on instantly. Very satisified. Go for it. I was looking for years to an alternative solution than the rip off Bluestar ignitor. These also are solid on the top so no junk gets in theem.