I'm guessing the trick is how you "butter" the backs of the tiles before laying them. I'm not a tiler at all, but... You may want to go to the john bridge site. That's were a lot of the pros are.

Here is a link that might be useful: tile site.

If you can, you should find some matching or coordinating 2" tiles. It will be much easier to tile the sloped floor with the smaller tiles. Also the increased grout lines will add more "grip" to the shower floor.

we haven't been able to find coordinating 2x2s so ended up with these 4x4s...I think most people recommend 4" or smaller...I think I have to "balance" the angle of the ones that end up on the "apex" and gradually blend with the ones on the sides but would like to know if maybe I should start in the middle or by the drain and work my way up to the walls? Thanks.

Did not do this myself, but I selected the 12 x 12 sheets of porcelain 1/2 inch mosaic tiles to make sure the shower floor was smooth and sloped, and also nonskid with the presence of grout.

The contractor started in the corner with these, because he could take out the tiny tiles quite easily when he got to the drain. I had him put it forward of center, under the water supply, so we would not stand on the drain.

This tile is an Italian unglazed porcelain from Lowes, and it is also available in 2 inch mosaics on a 12 x 12 sheet in several colors. I bought the Rialto White in that size for for another bathroom, to go under the clawfoot tub which will have plummbing come up through the floor.

You could cut the 4x4's into quarters to give you two by two's. I saw someone suggest that once, think it may have been Mongo or Bill Vincent.

I didn't see anything at Lowes but that was a while ago, will check them out again...still would like some help with the 4x4s if anyone has done them before...

Still hoping for the pros to comment...thanks.

4" x4" tiles layed on a shower floor look great! This is my preferred tile size for working with a Kerdi Drain.

If you choose a smaller tile insure that the fleece backer does not break down with water - many do. I believe this water based glue used for the backer introduces a food source for mould growth in your shower floor and makes for a poor install - this should be avoided. The better mosiac sheets are bonded with products not affected by water.

We grade all our showers to prepare a smooth surface for our waterproofing. You will not want a 1/16" - 1/8" grout joint when working with a 4"x4" tile. I like 3/16" - 1/4" if the tile has no eased edge and 1/8" - 3/16" if it does.

Your tile layout is your first step in a shower bathroom layout. You need to determine this for exact drain placement and shower fixtures which should line up with the floors grout lines if a matching wall tile is being used.

I like to set the floor tile with as little thinset as possible and used my grout float to even out the floor tile into the pitched positions. Often we will ease the Kerdi drain a little below the subfloor and we leave the tiles around the drain out the first day and set these a day or two later. My setter on our higher end projects has no problem with the entire floor in a day but I find with my lesser skill set that I can do a better job not trying to do it all at once.

I have tried setting the tiles around the drain first and then the next day setting the floor but find the other way around makes for a better install and one where I can nail the Kerdi drain's trim height exactly a 1/16" below the neighboring tile.

Good Luck!

Here is a picture of a Kerdi Drain installed with 4"x4" tumbled Black Italian Marble. The entire floor is a shower pan and even water spilled at the vanity and toilet will drain to the shower's 2" drain line.

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John,

I guess I'm trying to visualize how I would match up (keep flush) the tiles surrounding the ones that end up on the "apex" (4 diagonals down to the drain) of the 2 sloped surfaces.

The only way to have no lippage with any size tile is to cut the angle from the drain into the corners and cut the tile on this line. This look is quite common over seas but i don't care for it much.

Forming the shower base is key to an easy install and not having to use loads of setting material. A shower base well shaped will allow for a smooth contoured shower floor. Small amounts on minor lippage will occur but this is only minor and not that noticable once grouted - if done correctly.

Pick out your 25 worst tiles and do a sample board. You can dry mix and test your mortar, grout and sealers and get the feel for your install. Use your grout float to set the tiles into the mortar and even out the install. I like to keep my float in the long direction pointing along my grade. This "Evens out" the lippage and averages the correction over an larger area.

I hope this makes sense.