Well I'm still computerless and can't stand not being able to log on and see what everyone has blooming are to say. (frown) Needless to say my days are long and boring, but at least I'm getting a few things done in the gardens. This storm Ike is now headed for us and I'll be stranded inside the house with NOTHING to do and no computer to look at pretty pictures online. (sticking out bottom lip and pouting). Ya'll think of me once in awhile until I can get back up and running. I wish I could remember what my password was so I could check my emails...but as all ya'll know I'm forgetful and I can't think of it if my life depended on it. Happy Gardening, Love Ya'll Marian

"Sulfur would be my second choice b'c it just isn't as effective." Carolyn, I have never heard this before--do you have a source? I always see sulfur listed as a primary control on various university sites. I always consider it first when I think of powdery mildew. Ray, I would not consider sulfur against septoria or early blight so if you are trying to prevent these diseases as well as powdery mildew you could use Daconil (unless you want to say you are growing organically). For the treatment of PM alone sulfur is considered an effective option. Follow label as per temperature restrictions. You would want to use other fungicides for other diseases but it is a good idea to alternate anyway. Here is a 1998 study by the Univ. of Conn. that evaluated 5 fungicides for controlling PM. Sulfur was considered superior over Daconil (Bravo) (chlorothalonil). ""We recently evaluated the efficacy of five fungicides for control of powdery mildew under field conditions in Windsor, CT. On 2 Jun, 1998, five plants of Celebrity tomato were transplanted per plot to each of 5 replicate field plots in 3 rows 5 ft apart with 2 ft between plants in each plot. Two additional untreated border rows were planted to act as a source of inoculum. Plants were staked and tied but not pruned or suckered. Tomato plots were left unsprayed or treated with either sulfur (Kumulus, 15 lb/A), benomyl (Benlate®, 12 oz/A), chlorothalonil (Bravo®, 1.5 lb/A), copper hydroxide (Kocide®, 2 lb/A), or azoxystrobin (Quadris®, 5.6 fl. oz/A) on 24 Jul, 7 Aug, 20 Aug, and 4 Sep. Plants were evaluated for percent foliage with powdery mildew on 10 Aug, 31 Aug, and 10 Sep. Ripening tomatoes were harvested from plots on 25 Aug, 3 Sep. 10 Sep, and 17 Sep. Data were analyzed by the nonparametric Kruskal-Wallis analysis at P=0.05. Severe powdery mildew developed in the border plants and spread to the field plots (Table 1). Other foliar diseases, such as Septoria and Alternaria leaf spots, were low in incidence and not seen in the field plots or borders until late in the season. All fungicides evaluated resulted in less powdery mildew than developed in untreated control plots. Sulfur and Benlate® had superior efficacy early in the season, and Benlate® and Quadris® were superior at the late evaluation. Bravo® and Kocide® were intermediate in efficacy. While the trend was for lower yield in unsprayed plots, there were no significant differences in fruit yield as a result of the late season powdery mildew that developed in these experiments."" Here is another link that discusses the use of sulfur against PM (LT). http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/files/uploads/PestMonitoring/tomato_powdery_mildew.pdf Ray, I would definately treat this early to try and stop its progression. Advanced cases are very hard to control no matter what you use. THis would be an opportunity to experiment with Serenade --using it preventatively on some of the plants that don't have it as it doesn't seem to be all that effective controlling existing disease. Sulfur , or whatever you choose on other plants. Then compare the results. Your plants are very close together so you will have to keep on your toes combatting this. Good luck.

AHA! That cooking for 60 is something I can certainly relate to! (Actually I can relate to two kids, but rely on rhome410 (sound it out) to explain how larger families work.) I don't know how your family room lays out, but encourage you to search for threads about multiple islands, and check the Finished Kitchen Blog as well. Something that might help with all those people wanting to be in the kitchen, and define the areas for you, would be to have a really big seating island where your breakfast area and den wall are now. It could then be partly kitchen area and partly den, and substitute for the wall in separating the spaces, while keeping them continuous and open. You might not like it for the same reason you don't like the wall--having to go around it and all. But what you could do is put a beverage/snack area in one part (microwave, beverage fridge, maybe even an icemaker), and, unless you need more kitchen storage, art drawers and desk stuff drawers. Maybe even have a coffee maker cubby and sink for that, art, etc., as well as overflow food prep when needed. A great project area. And party central. That might be more than your house can take, or it might be a budget buster, but it might be worth considering. Since you want a new table, etc., you could also do something similar, sans plumbing, by combining some freestanding pieces (2 desks and a table, maybe) with a unifying surface on top.

amnorcal: Let me give you an analogy: Your body requires various nutrients in order to survive. You could eat nothing but junk food and take synthetic vitamins to meet your body's daily requirement for each nutrient. However, you body is not designed to function that way, so things are going to start to go wrong with your health. If you eat more whole foods that contain natural vitamins and minerals you will be much more healthy. Your soil is like your body. You can feed it inorganic nutrients, but if that is all you do, it is at risk of becoming ill. Notice that I said SOIL, not grass. The key to establishing a great lawn is to recognize that you need to understand your soil and learn how to make it healthy so that it, in turn, will provide an ideal environment for your lawn. Now, there are all types of people who come to this forum. Some just want a quick answer and they're on their way. They'd just prefer to have a lawn company do whatever they do and be done with it. You, I take it, are not at that extreme as you took the trouble to get a soil test, such as it is, and made some calculations and are making the effort to reseed. I assume that means you have more than a passing interest in achieving a good result with your hard work. Assuming that's right, read on. Otherwise you could probably do whatever UT said and you might end up with a decent result (buy why leave things to chance?). So you asked what rookie mistakes you did so far. I'll tell you what I see but don't take it negatively because nobody is here to criticize. Oh, and my last disclaimer is that I am not an expert, but I believe I know the extent of my knowledge and am confident in what I write in this post. I'm sure someone here will correct me if I get something wrong. Mistakes: 1. fertilizing in early spring, 2. planning to reseed without understanding why your lawn failed (it might not be due to low P and K), 3. making soil amendments (Lesco 6-12-12) based on an incomplete soil test, 4. it is pretty nearly impossible for you to have thatch. I know you used that term loosely to describe dead grass, but thatch is a very specific problem that points to certain incorrect practices, so you have to be careful about terminology, 5, In general, you have "Ready, Fire, Aim" syndrome. You don't realize that more information is required before you can take corrective action. If P,K is your real problem, then you got lucky but if is isn't then you've wasted a whole year. This isn't your fault. How are you supposed to know that UT is going to give you an incomplete crap soil test? Mother Nature only allows you to do things on her schedule, so recovering from a mistake now could take another year to get right. If you put in a little more effort in gathering some information, you'll get good advice on whether to use a slit seeder, or to reseed with other methods, or to do something else beforehand. Sometimes a slit seeder won't work at all, like if the ground is uneven or lumpy. So, if you are still on board, the first thing you need to do is get a soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. Their turnaround is very quick, so it won't interfere with your fall schedule. I put my last sample in the mail on Friday and I got my results back by email on Wednesday. Upload a copy of the results (convert the .pdf file to a .jpg first) and morpheus will be able to give you a program to get things in shape. If you don't want to do a lot of work, he will tell you what will give you the biggest bang for the buck. However, if you are willing to do some basic lawn feeding and mowing, you'll have the best lawn in the neighborhood in short order. Second, search this forum for "jar test" for soil, and do a jar test. This will give an idea of how sandy/silty/clay like your soil is. While not 100% necessary, it is easy and does help. It is also funny for the rest of us in the forum because everybody (myself included) is absolutely convinced that they have clay soil. The results ALWAYS (ok 99%) come back with virtually no clay. Doh! Soil chemistry has a lot to do with how compact your soil seems to be. Get the chemistry right, and the soil opens up. Also, a photo never hurts. OK, I've written enough. I'm not trying to bash you. It's just that I came here believing that companies like Scott's knew best and I'd just do what they say on the bag and I'd get a few pointers about my new sod in this forum. My eyes were opened to the ripoff practices in play with fertilizer manufacturers coupled with the ignorance of many lawn care companies. Bottom line - just take a little more time and gather a little more information on your soil before you do anything. Regards...