omg! ge profile induction hum! somebody help.

15 years ago

OMG, somebody help me! I've even poured myself a glass of wine to see if that will help. My 36" GE Profile Induction cooktop was hooked up today. I just put a pot (Cook's Essentials from QVC that I already had...cheap, I know) on it to boil water to see how it works. The humming started immediately and never stopped even after the water was boiling. I tried another size pan on another burner and the same thing. I really don't think I can abide by this noise! I would be embarrased for someone to hear this. Tell me there is some other cookware I can buy to help with this problem. This is not what I expected. I could just cry...and I just may!!!

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Comments (18)

lucypwd
15 years ago
Call GE customer service, but in the mean time try a better quality pan. Did you try the cooktop before you purchased??
klaa2
15 years ago
Maybe it doesn't know the words.. Ouch, I know that was bad. My feeble attempt at levity. Perhaps you have a bad unit. Does it hum on a lower setting? Does the cooking vessel have a flat bottom? Do you have a higher quality piece to try? Try a different hob, same problem?

One more suggestion, take the cork from the wine bottle, split it in half and plug your ears... no noise, problem fixed. I hope that made you laugh or at least smile. Good luck, tell us how you do.
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Here's my additional 2 cents worth from having looked pretty hard at both of the GE ranges last fall when I was stove shopping. First, on noise -- are you asking about cooktop noise or noise from the cooling fans for the electronics? If the latter, the reports here are that both the freestanding and slide-in stoves have cooling fans for the electronics but neither has been especially noticable. Some of the earlier Samsung FTQ induction ranges did have a problem with their fans being noisy and running for a long time. (That was supposedly fixed and I ahven't seen any such complaints about on the current NE59x models.) Also, I've seen complaints of noise in some KitchenAid slide-ins after KA/WP upgraded the electronics cooling fans to deal with the spate of board failures during or as a result of oven self-cleaning. Found nothing like that on the GE induction ranges. If, on the other hand, you mean cooktop noise as in buzzing, humming, ringing, etc. while pans heat up, the answer is that, so far, the answer is there is no difference between the slide-in and freestanding GE models. As for the question of whether the reliability of the slide-in will differ from that of the free-standing, it is too early to really know. The stoves haven't been on the market long enough. In theory, having the electronic controls at the front of the slide-in is a location that puts them where they might get more oven heat than the higher backsplash mounted boards in the feestanding version. Especially during high-heat oven self-cleaning. Also, you might be more likely to spill hot liquids etc. onto the front mounted electronic control panel. Back in the old days (three decades ago when the first round of induction stoves were being sold here in North America), spills on cooktop control surfaces could cause problems. Not sure how much of a problem it is with current touchpads style of controls. A lot of drop-in induction cooktops have them and I haven't seen a lot of reports about failures. so that might not be the problem it used to be. But what I've just said is concern about risk, however, not experienced based predictions. So, at this point, we just do not k now the answer to your question about long term reliability. Some other points. Oven vents: both the slide-in and the freestanding vent the oven in the back of the cooktop. The slide-in has a low "island trim" kind of vent, like the ones the GE Cafe ranges. I was told but was not able to verify) that the low and thin backguard for the Cafe stoves can be used with the induction slide-in if you want something to keep things from rolling off the stove stop behind the stove. Apparently it is possible for things on the stove top to fall into the low oven vent grate. 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The comments about ten-power settings got me musing on the subject and about Amy's initial question about logarithmic power controls. Here's where that lead me. Nobody really has logarithmic power controls, but there can be power settings spaced to sort of approximate a logarithmic curve -- a number of settings at the low end with only a couple of additional points needed to define the steep side of the curve for really high heat. In theory, that can be done with a ten-step power curve and some folks do find 10 power settings fine for what and how they cook. Others do not. Is anybody else here old enough to remember the GE stoves and cooktops from 50's and 60's with ten mechanical pushbuttons for heat settings? Those pushbuttons were literally "digital" controls, meaning that you punched them with one of your digits. GE sold a lot of them for a couple of decades, so some people found them adequate. Some did not. For the current digital electronic ten-step controls, others here besides loonlakecamp have reported satisfaction with a ten step set-up. Others, like me, would find them inconvenient for my cooking with, say, my pressure cookers. With only ten heat level steps, I would have to be constantly switching settings to maintain the correct pressure. Power setting "1" might be too low, setting "2" might be too high. Switch to 1 for a while until the pressure drops a little too low, switch to 2 for a while until it gets a little too high, then back to 1, etc., etc. With in-between settings, I avoid that annoyance. You don't use pressure cookers? Then maybe having in-between steps won't matter to you. This is just one example of how cooking styles can differ and how more settings can matter to one cook and not to another. Much fuss is sometimes made about the supposedly infinite adjustablity of gas burners. As a practical matter, though, we mostly try to get the burner to the same relatively few settings. Searing is pretty much searing, isn't it? If you deep fat fry, how often would you care if if the oil were at 352° instead of 350°? But maybe somebody is working with sugar syrups where, say, it might matter if a syrup is at 325° and not 360° and then maybe it matters if the induction burner only has ten settings. That said, the subject of induction power settings and controls can be more complicated than just the number of settings. The need for finding "in-between" steps for induction cooking can reflect two different aspects of ways that manufacturers design induction burner controls. One consideration is the power cycling that all induction burners use for settings of less than full power. A technical term for this is "pulse width modulation. or "PWM." It is the same kind of thing a microwave does for low heat levels---momentary pulses of power that average out at a particular heat level. With most PICs as well as some brands of induction cooktops and ranges, the PWM is pretty crude. I've seen this somewhere described as firing up the burner for a second or two of omigosh hot and then switching totally off for three or four seconds. While these pulses average out at a certain heat level the timing can be problematic for, say, the srambled eggs that Amy mentioned at the outset. Combine that kind of "low frequency" PWM with the crude power controls found on many PICs, and you could have a reason that Amy would find herself wanting steps in-between power level "1" and "2" for scambling eggs. Some full size induction ranges and cooktops work this way. I noticed a lot of pulsing at the low heat settings on the Maytag induction range I saw demoed several years ago when I was stove shopping. From past threads on PWM, I gather than Whirlpool's induction ranges and cooktops (which include Maytag and Kitchenaid brands) have used crude PWM. For searching out past threads here on this subject try a search strings like "induction + pulsing + gardenweb" and "induction + cycling + gardenweb." A few of the expensive PICs (Cooktek, Garland, Vollrath) and many full size ranges and cooktops use much higher frequency PWM. Instead switching on and off for a second or more at time, the power switches on and off many times per second. The higher frequency of switching yields much finer power control that more closely approximates a steady heat level. The other design aspect that can lead to wanting "in-between" settings is in how the engineers program the electronic controllers to space the power settings on the appliance you are using --- that's the kind of logarithmic curve I thnk Amy may been thinking about when she posed her question in the original post. . For manufacturers, the least costly controls use simple linear spacing. Setting "1" would use the PWM to average 10% power, setting "2" would be 20%, etc. Even with a high quality PWM, though, 9 or 10 linear settings may be too crude, A thing most induction users discover pretty quickly is that they do most of their cooking in the low to medium range settings. The highest setting can be used for boiling. One or two medium high settings takes care of high heat applications like searing. There seem to be three strategies for induction manufacturers to address the crudeness. One is to add half-steps between the numbered power settings. The other is to program the stove's controllers to put more steps in the low to medium range and fewer in the high ranges. The third strategey combines the first two. Without using the particular induction stove or cooktop, it can be hard to find out whether the particular unit was designed to use one or the other or some combination of them. In my own somewhat limited experience, it seems that the GE induction appliances and Electrolux's Frigidaire/Kenmore ranges seemed to use a modified-half step approach with some concentration of steps but also using half steps for finer control. The Electrolux-branded models use a slightly different approach with quarter-steps at the lower power ends and fewer steps at the high end. Miele cooktops seem to use a similar kind of mix with the option of switching on more steps. I'm not sure how BSH (which includes Bosch) handles this except that their induction appliances manuals show that half-steps are available. The Samsung freeestanding induction ranges seemed to follow the GE model (19 half steps). The reports about Samsung's ten-step "Chef Collection" model seem to conflict, some seeming to say that stepping is linear, some hinting that the settings may be skewed to the lower end. There is a yet another strategy which is the near infinite stepping of of potentiometer-like controls. These control systems seem to be very expensive so, AFAIK, they are used only for the commercial Garland/Manitowiac PICS and maybe the new Miele induction range have this. I say "maybe" for the Miele because there is nothing about it in the product literature and the display shows only whole-number settings, but a couple of posters here -- livinginseattle is the name I recall -- have reported finding that the knobs can be turned to provide fine gradations of "in-between" settings. Some folks would find that ideal. Then the question becomes: how much are you willing to spend for the "ideal" (and are there other design compromises that have to accept in order to get that ideal function for the burners?)
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pupwhipped
Original Author
15 years ago
On the advice of another member in the kitchen forum, I put a piece of paper towel below the pan and it made absolutely no difference. Hum city! Next, get this, I tried my parents 40+ year old cookware and there was absolutely no hum. Then, when the water got close to boiling, there was this loud, scorching kind of noise. But, it was similar to water coming to a boil in this cookware on a normal electric cooktop. I can handle that, of course. The Cook's Essentials cookware is nonstick and my parents' cookware is not. Don't know if that makes any difference. Maybe there is some hope. Sadly, I have a ton of this CE cookware from QVC. It's been okay cookware for my old coil cooktop, but guess it may not work with my induction. I cringe to think of how much All Clad or Demeyere will cost. I was hoping to avoid that.

lucypwd, I did not try the cooktop before hand, that would be too smart for me. HA! And klaa2, I wuuuuv your idea of sticking the wine corks in my ears. Between the buzz of the wine and corks in my ears, I think this cooktop will be just fine. Haven't mentiond the problem to hubby yet. Poor guy, he has infections in both ears and he ain't hearing so well of late. I need to get this humming problem solved before he gets better. The induction cooktop was MY choice. yikes!
Anyone out there have this same 36" GE induction cooktop? If so, what pans do you use? TIA.
mls99
15 years ago
I have the GE Monogram 30" and have several cheapo pans, 2 demeyere pans, and 1 all clad. The pans make a bit of a difference, to the humming (they make a big difference to the time it takes to heat the pan/boil water) but the power level makes the biggest difference to the hum. If I'm boiling water for pasta on H then I notice it humming. It hums a little at the lower power settings, but I've had mine for about 3 weeks and I've tuned it out. Good luck! Hope it doesn't drive you nuts!
pupwhipped
Original Author
15 years ago
mls99....."hope it doesn't drive you nuts?" I'm already nuts with all this kitchen remodel stuff. I was hoping to be able to come off my meds once everything was done. Firing up my appliances may send me straight to the funny farm. HA!

I think I will at least purchase one premium pan like All Clad and see how that does.

Thanks

pupwhipped
oskiebabu
15 years ago
Try a fairly inexpensive cast iron pots and pans by Lodge or Staub and maybe Le Creuset's coated cast iron units. Yes, they weigh a ton and can give you a good workout, but they are the most magnetic and I find the flatness and weight of the pans and pots remove most of the hum.

Greg
cpovey
15 years ago
Check out the following site for all-clad.

Here is a link that might be useful: All-Clad outlet
gizmonike
15 years ago
Our Gaggenau induction burner hums, and the frequency of the hum increases as the setting increases. I was very surprised & disappointed by this -- there was no unit to test beforehand, and our little Mr. Induction portable burner never hums. Heavy cast iron or All-Clad results in a quieter hum, but the hum is still there. However, now I just turn our VAH fan on and the hum disappears.
carol_jk
15 years ago
I have a GE Profile 30" induction and I use both KitchenAid Gourmet Essentials stainless and Infinite Circulon non-stick stainless. The only time I hear a hum is on 9 or High. I do recall once that the hum only happened when the lid was on the pot. There's no need to buy super expensive cookware. Try a few different types and I'm sure you will find one that works for you.
klaa2
15 years ago
I don't know if the GE has a powerboost type setting like our Thermador (you probably do, but it's called something different) but it's perfectly normal to hear a slight, very slight, low buzz or hum, whatever you want to call it, when you first put the unit on that setting. It may be more pronounced depending on the cookware you use and should stop relatively quickly.

If you are hearing a humming noise on any other setting call the manufacturer, you probably need a replacement. Since these cooktops use high amperage, I would be concerned that there is something electronically incorrect and potentially dangerous (especially if the hum you are referring to is like that of a high voltage power line flopping around on the ground).

I would be relentless with the manufacturer until I was satisfied. If they tell you that it is supposed to make noise, return it and buy a Thermador, they don't.

I also strongly recommend using good cookware (Demeyere, All-Clad). High quality cookware makes a huge difference when using induction. For instance, a Demeyere skillet has multiply material right to its edge that heat the whole skillet, not just the base. You're not getting that with any type of cookware you can buy from your local department store. Good cookware heats faster, more evenly and retains heat inside the cooking vessel thereby wasting less energy.

All I can say is try it and you'll see for yourself.

Good luck with the hum and let us know how you make out. You're helping the next person with their purchase.
pupwhipped
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks to all for the good advice. I am now in Dallas, TX visiting, and I am going to go somewhere where I can test a cooktop in action and see what kind of noise it makes. I will probably purchase one All Clad piece of ccokware, as well. Will let you know what I find out. Thanks again.
jerrod6
15 years ago
So from what I am reading, is humming a characteristic of induction?
cushy
15 years ago
Pupwhipped: It's almost a year that I haven't joined in the induction "noise" problem. We have a 36" Thermador hybrid that clicks on low temps and hums on high temps. Thermador has been responsive to our complaints and even replaced the cooktop. The clicks and hums have continued. The noise is least noticeable with cast-iron cookware and most noticeable with less expensive regular cookware. We like the Demeyere that came with it (and Thermador sent us a full set to compensate for the noise). The noise with that cookware is definitely present but less noticeable. We love induction, but the noise issue has been a constant irritant. Over time, we've learned to tune it out. After a year, we're living with it peacefully. But if we have guests, we have to explain the sounds to them. Luckily with the hybrid, we have the choice of using the thermal side (2 burners). If simmering a sauce and a friend is visiting, I put the pot on the thermal side, so that my friend and I don't have to listen to the sauce simmering and the click, click, click, click,.... of the induction.

That said, after many years of living in many cities both in the U.S. and abroad and using gas, we love induction. We love gas too, but induction is outstanding. It would be superb if only the annoying clicks and hums weren't there. Like us, you'll probably learn to live with them.
sshrivastava
15 years ago
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ALL-CLAD for induction. Their Stainless series is supposedly induction-capable, but there is something about these pots that cause problems with my De Dietrich 308X. My cook top has automatic pan detection and monitors the temperatures of the pans to ensure they do not exceed a certain range. The All-Clad pots cause my induction cook top to throttle down the power because it thinks the pot is overheating. Water in my All-Clad stock pot takes forever to boil, but the same amount of water in my Le Creuset cast iron boils very quickly.

The De Dietrich sensors don't like the All-Clad apparently, although they seem to be okay with cookware that has a more substantial ferrous composition.
paso
15 years ago
I am getting the 5 burner Diva induction...I "test drove" the 2 burner Diva at the appliance store and I heard the very slightest hum...I really tried to hear any noise coming from the unit, but it was negligible. I think, if I had a serious hum,other than complain to the manufacturer, I would turn on my vent hood to drown out the sound.
cpovey
15 years ago
Re: I DO NOT RECOMMEND ALL-CLAD for induction.

A rather broad condemnation. My All-Clad stainless cookware works fine with my CookTek hob. There is some hum, but I think all induction hobs hum. Obviously, some combinations of pots and top may hum more than others. My cast iron hums less than the all-clad, but it hums some too.

Now, if they start to sing along, then I would worry... ;)
moose_2007
15 years ago
Forgive my ignorance-my GE Profile cooktop is still in its box, waiting to be installed. Is it the unit itself that hums or is it a vibration hum of the cookware's contact with the cooktop as it is being electromagneticized(I just love making up words)?
klaa2
15 years ago
It would be the unit, but the cookware makes a difference.

Induction cooking works by creating a very strong alternating electromagnetic field in a coil under the ceramic glass top (the Hob). When you put a ferrous (iron/magnetic) material in this field its properties change (you can't see this as its at an atom level). This change creates a current in the material, this in known as induction. Because the field in the coil is alternating, it creates an alternating current in your cookware. As with any metal that has a current running through it, depending on its resistance, it will generate heat. The more resistance, the more heat it will generate.

Whenever you send a strong alternating electric current through a coil, creating a magnetic field, it will hum. Period. This is because the material in the core that the coil is wrapped around expands and contracts with the cycle (frequency) of the magnetic field. This is called magnetostriction. Depending on the quality of the components and the engineering of the cooktop, you may hear this hum more pronounced with one cooktop than another. As a matter of fact, you may get a different result even between the same make and model. A perfect example of this is between Cushy and me. We both have the same unit and I am fortunate to not have a pronounced hum.

This also explains why you may also get a hum depending on the setting the unit is placed. Different strength current, different expansion and contraction, hum or no hum.

When you place cookware (ferrous material) on the ceramic glass top it changes the intensity of the magnetic field in the coil and thereby changes the amount of magnetostriction going on. This would be the reason why the hum may disappear when you place cookware on the hob, or it may actually create a hum. Depending on the quality of the ferrous material (cookware), the interaction will be different.

omg! ge profile induction hum! somebody help.

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omg! ge profile induction hum! somebody help.

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