I agree with Denninmi- watering over the summer will be very important, especially for blueberries. I'd suggest using a soaker hose/drip irrigation to take some of the work out of it. As far as a good nursery which ships potted plants, I would suggest Rolling River Nursery. Their prices aren't much higher than bare root, so I've been doing more and more of my buying there (I bought from 9 different nurseries this spring). Berries Unlimited (3 gal blueberry plant is very nice, but very pricey), Backyard Berry Plants, and Whitman Farms are 3 other choices who ship potted berry plants. I don't think any of these sell apples and plumbs though, so Rolling River would be my suggestion for those. It would however limit your rootstock and variety choices a bit.

What zone you are in? Are the plants dormant now? I'm not a sage expert but in general... When you move a plant, digging it up causes loss of root mass. This means the plant has a more difficult time taking up water. Frequently plants wilt under this condition. Relatively speaking, a small number of roots cannot take up enough water to support a large number of leaves. When this happens, it helps the plant by pruning it back after the move, equalizing root mass and leaf mass. I've done this before and the plant stopped wilting and recovered. The next year it was full and looked great. So based on that, it may actually be easier on the plants to move them now before there is a large number of leaves. You shouldn't have a problem with wilting. Just my opinion.

Before applying anything called "topsoil" be sure of what you want because "topsoil is defined as the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and it may be nothing more then what you already have. What is your soil like now? What is your soils pH? How well does that soil drain? How much organic matter is in your soil now? You can make a very good soil, without laying something called "topsoil" simply by amending the soil that is there now with enough organic matter. Start by contacting Rutgers Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done which will help with the soil pH and the nutrient levels you now have. Then do these simple soils tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what your soil is like now and what you may need to do to have a good healthy soil to grow a strong and healthy turf on it.

Jim, I am hoping someone with more experience than I will respond, but here is my opinion. There is danger in either choice. Plumeria need heat and light to root, and it takes a while for that to happen. I would expect it will be getting cooler where you are as well as fewer hours of sunlight, so rooting now may be difficult unless you have a heat mat and grow lights to augment mother nature. However, although there are reports of cuttings being viable after months in storage, I think the chance of successful rooting drops the longer you wait to root them. Personally, if there is any chance of giving them bottom heat and extra light, I would try rooting them now, rather than waiting. Mike