We are starting a master bath remodel soon-- likely will have subway tile, mosaic w/mixed glass, ceramic, stone components, and trim pieces--- can we use the same grout for all types of tile? Ordered sample of the mosaic from company that doesn't have local distributer and he recommened grount that has glass beads in it for the bling effect-- can't remember name==but said it really only worked with glass tiles/elements so a ceramic/porceline subway would not really benefit-- I just want the same color throughout-- one that doesn't turn and doesn't mildew--we are in coastal FL and humid is our life... Not sure who will be doing the tile work so can't talk to the installer yet for his recommendations/product experience

There will be a bit of ambiguity in my answers...because there's no true right or wrong way. But here I go anyway: 1. Is the decision to go with epoxy or non-epoxy grout based primarily on resistance to mold and/or staining or is one type better than the other as far as preventing water penetration? Epoxy grout will allow less water penetration than a cement-based grout. Being non-porous, it'll also be less liable to staining. I consider epoxy to be overkill in residential showers, unless you're into dying your hair in the shower, etc. One other thing, you have a kerdi shower. That will limit water penetration, so it's sort of one more reason that epoxy could be considered overkill. 2. If we don't go with an epoxy grout in the shower, would the Polyblend grout used on the floor be suitable or would you recommend something different? Polyblend or any other manufacturer's cement based grouts would be fine. I use product from several manufacturers. Some people are preferential to just one manufacturer. 3. I think I'm confusing "caulk" and "silicone"... Are they used in the same applications? If not, what is the difference? Think of silicon as a type of caulk. There are, in general, three types of caulk typically used in residential shower construction; latex, siliconized-latex, and silicon. Latex is easy to work with, but the least durable and the most prone to mold and mildew staining. Silicon is the most difficult to work with, but has the best water-repellent capabilities. Siliconized-latex is a hybrid, it's in between the other two. In a well-built shower, any of the three could work fine, though I usually use caulks with some silicone in them, either S-L or 100% silicon. Look for a caulk that is color and texture matched to your grout, that way the caulk will look like your grout. Some 100% silicon's are only offered in color-match, but not texture. Since you mentioned Polyblend, here's a link to Custom's Color Matched Caulk. 4. Is caulk and/or silicone necessary in a Kerdi shower? I have nightmares about mold forming on my caulk (or silicone?) and having to tear it all out. The only proper way to avoid caulk completely is to do a floated mud shower with reinforced corners. Other than that, properly pitched surfaces, proper ventilation, and 100% silicon caulk will give you the best chance. 5. If we do caulk/silicone, I've heard that it should be done at every change of plane. Would this include areas that would not be taking a direct hit with water or having standing water on them? Correct. In lightweight shower construction (tile backer board over wood framing, for example), adjacent surfaces can move independently of one another. Caulk will flex. Grout could crack. Now you have a Kerdi shower, that works in your favor, as water can only penetrate to the membrane. But in general, yes, for lightweight construction, caulk all changes in plane. 6. Specifically which product would you recommend? A caulk that is color and possibly texture (sanded or unsanded) matched to your grout. A caulk that has some silicon in it. So the brand of caulk could be related to the brand of grout used if your goal is to color match. 7. Although our tile is porcelain, we are using a travertine base molding that has many nooks and crannies that will need to be filled. I understand that they get filled in by grout. This base molding is lighter that our wall and floor tiles and the matching grout that we're using there. Can I use a lighter grout for just the base moldings? Yes, you can change grout colors within the wall itself. 8. Finally, would you recommend sealing everything once it is done? Or just sealing the travertine pieces? I'd just seal the travertine. Porcelain is already non-porous. Sealing grout can be an adventure within itself. Regardless, use a penetrating, vapor-permeable sealer.

Yes to painting the woodwork (to include wainscot and wood ceilings) in a semigloss. My kids' bathroom is floor-to-ceiling beadboard, it's painted in a semi-gloss. Never a problem, either with mildew or the paint being too glossy. It's normally just high gloss on drywall (not woodwork) that can be problematic. If typical wall preparation was done, the higher gloss paints can show sanding swirl marks, pinholes, mud humps at the seams, even with excellent prep it can reflect light differently from the drywall paper versus where the mud is. A good primer can eliminate that too, but I'm just giving worst-case scenario which seems to be typified in standard construction. A paint with lesser reflective properties will hide those imperfections. Funny, I was going to add what you wrote, that you could paint it a semigloss (or even a gloss) first coat with a satin top coat if desired. And yes, there are mildewcides that can be added to paints. They can be added to both alkyd and latex.

The brand polyseamseal was recently purchased by locktite. The quality and product line have been expanded to include those available today. I've successfully used polyseamseal for 35 years because of its ease of application and longevity of retaining its pliability, and will continue. To me, silicone belongs 20ft. deep in a landfill, unopened.