I understand your points live wire, I guess my simpler question would be are typical cabinets measured to 24" the box only without a door ? so with an overlay door or drawer they measure 24-3/4"?

Mine came shipped bolted to a wooden pallet, with a heavy cardboard box covering. The cardboard was stapled to the wood pallet, by removing the staples it can lifted off for inspection, and replaced. Keeping the range bolted to the pallet will aid if the range needs to be moved around at all during storage/construction.

Propane is heavier than air -- natural gas is lighter than air. In order for the propane burner to light with an electric igniter, the propane must be pushed up to the spark by the pressure of gas behind it in the venturi tube (since it doesn't rise naturally in air). If the tip of the igniter wire is not at the very lowest opening in the burner, the propane spills out of any lower holes before it gets to the igniter. The Bluestar igniter electrode tips have historically been optimized for natural gas in that they sit at the level of about the third hole up in the column of holes in front of the igniter. For natural gas, this insures that the burner is filled with enough gas before ignition occurs. For propane, this results in delayed or, potentially, faulty ignition if the burner is not exactly level. I came up with a simple and reversible modification for Bluestar propane burners that works really well. After the mod, the burners in my RCS range light reliably within four clicks on cold startup and one click if the burner is already filled with gas. The modification: Replace the screw that mounts the igniter to the underside of the burner with a 6-32 3/8" long stainless steel pan head machine screw (the original one is the same but only 1/4" long). Put a 1/8" thick spacer between the bottom of the burner and the igniter mounting flange in order to lower the igniter by 1/8". I used a #8 stainless steel nut but you could also use stainless steel washers to add up to 1/8". When tightening the screw, make sure that the tip of the electrode wire is directly in front of the lowest burner hole. I think that the currently shipping ranges now have igniters that have longer electrode wires that can potentially be bent downward to the lowest hole using a couple of needle nose pliers (to prevent breaking the ceramic insulator). This might also work to solve the propane ignition problem (I have a one year old RCS with the shorter electrode wires).

We have had the 36" Blue Star range (model RCS36SB) for about 5 years and would not recommend it. The knobs get very warm and we have had problems with the convection fan as well as ignition (gas would build up in the oven while it failed to ignite), both problems required multiple service visits The latest problem, the oven knob broke off and Bluestar said they no longer manufacture the part. Bluestar said they changed from a mechanical thermostat to an electronic thermostat and the ”upgrade” would cost $350 to purchase, not including installation (total cost estimated at least $500). I assume they redeigned the oven knob/thermostat because they had so many problems with the knob, convection and ignition. Even though it was under warranty and the knob broke due to faulty design, the service manager refused to provide a replacement part. I guess you can expect problems to occur with any appliance, but I do not expect them to provide such poor service, especially when they know it broke due to their own design flaw. It takes them days to follow up on service questions. Best to stay away from Blue Star.