Those enestes are amazing!!!!!! I bought one in october and It could bearely stand up. Now it is standing up as best as it can, but the leaves are reverting back to green and they arent growing very fast. It has been about 3 weeks since Ive seen a new leaf come up. lets say it looks a little pathetic. Bright side is it is one of the few plants not infested by bugs (I say about half have something eating it that has to be treated). Hopefully mine will pick up the pace during the summer. I still cant believe you live in a zone 4. I can understand beautiful plants outside, but inside too... wow, that takes a lot. Good thing you have high celings! That snow outside probably makes a good reflector of sunlight into your house too. Are you going to give them a head start inside, or chop them up in the spring so they can fit through the door easier? Good luck and keep up the great work! Hopefully one day mine will at least slightly resemble that!! :)

So here's the completed project with the Centor Blinds. Check out the install video at their website and realize that the casing that houses the blind assembly sticks out from the door unit a good 4-6" and looks shady onside- wish I'd taken a photo of that before having the left and right sheetrock furred out to make the screen flush with the interior walls. The mechanism slides well, but once in awhile makes a large "clunk" about midway that seems like it isn't lined-up straight on the reel-out of the screen side. I emailed Centor for care instructions, as I have a Phantom Screen on another french door that I silicone regularly, and they never replied. The only care instructions I could find were to keep the tracks clean. You see where the blind meets the screen, and there is a full-length magnetic pliable stip attached to make the connection between the two. It is so magnetic (most likely due to surface area of magnetic material, that t it is a STRONG two-handed separation to open the gap. I'm going to run some quality Scotch 32+ electrical tape at intervals to see if I can make separation more manageable. We have "lake" or "rice" flies that hatch at different intervals of the summer, and if they are on your screen or blind, they get crushed-into the material, and need to be removed via tooth-brush, etc. I'd do it again, but I'd check other brands to see if there is a comparable option that is US instead of Overseas-based.

If you plan to use a Johnson framing kit, you might take a look at this. https://jhusa.net/1515-ply-34-pocket-door-frame-plywood-clip-set The plywood is 3/4", but it is recessed into the pocket door frame so it doesn't take up additional width space. Then you could put the sheets of drywall over that. One caution: if you put drywall over plywood sheeting, don't make the same mistake I did when I re-did the exterior walls in a room of a mid-1800s house. I covered the interior side of the exterior walls, with 3/8" plywood to give lateral strength, since the original house has no sheathing under the siding, which was nailed directly over the studs. (150 years of lateral movement with wind and ground settling is why the original plaster/lath walls were beyond repair.) I didn't want to rip off the exterior siding and add sheathing, so I installed plywood over the interior side after putting in insulation, and then added sheets of drywall, which came out to identical thickness as the original plaster and lath. My mistake was to smear construction adhesive over the plywood before applying the drywall, because the wall was uneven and the drywall didn't fit snugly against the plywood at many spots. About 6 months after the drywall work was finished, I noticed hair-line cracks developing over some of the drywall joints. Although plywood is supposed to be extremely stable compared to regular wood, there is still a small amount of expansion and contraction under varying temperature and humidity conditions, and the movement was just enough to produce visible cracks. I should have just fastened the drywall at the studs without the glue, as if the plywood sheathing weren't there, allowing some structural movement under the drywall without causing it to shift enough to produce cracks. It's something I live with, since the cracks are very small and hardly noticeable to anyone but me, but I know they are there and they jump out at me every time I look at that wall.

@pkp, thanks for the added detail. Based on that info, your GC changed the opening size (increased the height at minimum), and then provided you the size of the RO THAT HE CREATED. The size that he provided you (which you then passed along) was wrong if it didn't account for those hangers. As far as the door contractor, as long as they indeed ordered the door to fit the RO that they were given, I'd absolve them completely based on the fact that I assume the door was ordered prior to the opening being created for lead time purposes. This is not entirely uncommon, but is less than ideal, as your experience (or similar) happens often. Contractor A creates and opening, windows/doors are ordered from Contractor B based on that sizing. Contractor B shows up for install and the opening is not what was stated that it should be. I retract my comment about their actions being unprofessional, as they can't measure an RO that doesn't yet exist. Whether or not the GC is fully responsible here depends on the contract language. I disagree with the premise that they are in the clear because the door installation was removed from their work scope. They were still under contract to create an opening. Given that they didn't widen it, I ASSUME that details of their work was simply to opening the existing hole down to the floor, and not to create an opening at an exact size. That fact does probably push this responsibility onto you contractually, but an argument could probably also be made that you trusted his "professional" measurements which ended up being inaccurate. His caveat of "I don't know about bi-folds" is irrelevant if his RO measurement is not what the RO is. As a professional, the GC got himself into this hornet's nest when he gave you measurements. Based on all of this, what I'd try to do at this point is work with the GC to fix the RO, but at a reduced cost. Both of you have skin in the game (if this were litigated I believe that it would lean in your favor), so there should be a mutual willingness to work together toward a compromise.