In the beginning, I thought this thread was about making use of what could be made into something good, and getting rid of the rest. I didn't understand that the focus was on using pieces of a landscape somewhere, somehow. It seems to me that many existing "pieces" of the puzzle, if used, will only guaranty an undesirable outcome. There are many smallish, highly ornamental, cute pairs of plants (bougainvillia, topiary, pompoms, etc.) that beg to be used to flank a passageway. But there are not that many passageways that need flanking. There are plants in bad positions that need to be moved, but they are too big to move without a great deal of trouble or expense. Though there are many pictures attached to the thread, they are isolated shots that don't link areas. It's hard to develop a fluid concept of the site. Truth is, trying to make sense of the existing puzzle pieces would be an unpleasant job if I could be there doing it on site. And that would be much easier than trying to do it by remote. I think it was mentioned that it would be a good idea to return some items. I understand the difficulty and unpleasantness with that, but honestly, I think that is the best suggestion. What this situation really needs is a good designer who can make a personal visit, and a willingness of the owner to find another way to dispose of all the things that don't fit or that can't be made to fit without too much sacrifice. I believe the owner does want a finished product that's actually nice. But there only so much a person can squeeze in before the objects begin to work against him. It doesn't need more "objects" as much as it needs continuity and linking. This is not an attempt to say "I'm out." I'm just saying that the project is frustrating and I wish I could help you more, Relleum, but other than offering piecemeal advice, don't know if I can.

Thanks for the additional photos, Michael. I am assuming that you haven't a huge amount of gardening experience, so I'll apologize in advance if I am telling you things that you already know. My personal preference overall would be to plant the entire area out to the concrete walkway and widen the bed around the corner wider as well, for at least part of the distance down the side. That might a good place for the hydrangeas. I would also use shrubs along with perennials (and a few annuals if you want extra color or to fill in until the perennials and shrubs get bigger) to get some variety similar to what you have now. About your current beds: I notice black plastic(?) or landscape fabric in your bed under the mulch unless you have pulled it out since the photos were taken. As someone who made that mistake earlier in my gardening years and also inherited it from the previous resident of my current house, I don't think that you want to continue that as it will interfere with how the soil "lives." It will restrict water and oxygen exchange and cause all kinds of problems down the road when it starts to decompose and when the plants start growing roots into it. If you want more info or opinions, go to the one of the following forums and put "landscape fabric" into the search at the bottom of the thread listings: landscape design, perennials, and perhaps shrubs. Your bark or wood chip mulch is great, since it will help keep moisture levels even and suppress weeds. If you want something under it to further help prevent weed growth, corrugated cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper work well to suppress weeds without the problems caused by landscape fabric. I generally put down cardboard or newspaper and then at least 3 inches of mulch on top of that in all my shrub and perennial beds. What you can plant will depend on how much organic matter you are able and willing to put into your sandy soil. Gardenweed has given you a fine list of plants that in general do well in drier situations, though a few (lLobelia cardinalis/cardinal flower, Delphinium, peonies, Campanula/bellflower and Siberian iris) will do better in somewhat richer, less dry soil. If you have access to lots of organic matter through a town composting program, a nearby farm with composted manure, lots of old leaves, or some similar source, or if you have the money to buy a large quantity of compost, then dig in more than you think is needed into the first several inches up to a foot of the bed and you will have a wider range of plants to choose from. Tree oracle suggested conifers (good for winter interest so there aren't just dead sticks there) and roses, specifically Knockouts, which are long-blooming, disease resistant, and not fussy at all from everything I've read (no personal experience.) I grow the following roses: John Davis (large bush or short climber), Lady Elsie Banks, a white double rugosa, Rosa mundi, and a no ID that is common at old farmhouses here. I don't fuss with any of them other than to knock Japanese beetles into a can of soapy water while I wander through the garden early morning before work, though many are once-bloomers that are finished before the beetles emerge. No disease problems on any of them. Some other plants that will like or tolerate a relatively dry bed beyond Gardenweed's list include Nepeta/catmint, creeping thyme, alchillea/yarrow, calluna/heather (though not right next to the concrete foundation since it likes acidity) which is actually a short fine-textured shrub that can have colorful foliage, lavender, penstemon, Thermopsis caroliniana/carolina lupine (though not a lupine - similar to Baptisia), many of the veronica, hemerocallis/daylily. Most of these won't mind a bed with better soil also. Some plants that need somewhat better soil include perennial geraniums, dianthus/pinks (which aren't all pink in color), crocosmia, Iberis sempervirens/candytuft, tall phlox (get a mildew resistant type), Thalictrum rochebrunianum/lavender mist meadow rue. I can see a clematis on an obelisk looking great here, maybe behind the shrub on the corner where it will get some of the extra moisture from the downspout, but not be in its path. I also really value spring bulbs for early color and have found that if I plant them at the deepest end of the recommendation they seem to need dividing less often. I have daffodils that are probably 10 years old and haven't needed dividing yet - they still bloom prolifically. Just plant them where perennial foliage will hide the withering daff foliage. I also have reticulated iris (bought from Brent and Becky's bulbs on the web since they aren't common locally) which are budded up at the base of my foundation now and will be done blooming by mid-April before the daffs even start. I love seeing flowers in March! Both these don't mid dry summer soil at all. A couple of non-evergreen shrubs that will be fine in average soil include weigela (several shorter varieties with colored or variegated leaves) and spirea. Your neighbor's rhododendrons seem to be doing okay, and there are some shorter varieties such as PJM 'Checkmate' that hasn't cleared 3 feet in my garden. Conifers such as junipers ( get a short variety), birdsnest spruce, or one of the short varieties of Chamaecyparis would probably do well here or even one of the miniature Colorado blue spruce/Picea pungens. To get specific suggestions of types, try the conifer forum, the rhododendron forum, or the shrub forum. I often go to nearby nurseries to see what they have, read labels, take copious notes, go home and do internet research, and then go buy based on what is available that fits my needs. Some general things to consider in planning your bed. -Think about a way to have your hose holder be a bit less visible; either paint it to match the siding or move it out of sight behind a shrub or around the corner. Right now its contrasting color makes it grab attention. -Do your soil prep before you bring home plants. In general, the better your soil, the better the garden will be and the easier to care for. That extra organic matter will help hold moisture and nutrients rather than letting them trickle on through the soil. Add enough and the hydrangeas might even be happy here. -Plant things near the downspout that won't mind a bit of extra moisture, and maybe put several rocks right in front of the concrete catcher to break the water's force before it gets to the garden. -Think about leaf shape, size, color, and texture. There won't always be lots of perennials blooming, so foliage that offers variety and interest will keep things looking nice even when there aren't lots of flowers. -Plant lower things below the windows unless you want them blocked. I have used annual vines (scarlet runner beans) on strings over western windows to help keep the house cooler, but generally don't like to spend time trying to keep the plants away from the windows, so plant things with lower height there. -Most gardens look better with not just one of this and one of that - have some repetition, whether it is of foliage color, specific plant, flower color, though I have seen gardens that are an absolute riot of variety that still look lovely. Your current garden with the two hydrangeas and the several lobelia (?) have variety of height and foliage texture, but related flower color and more than one of each specific plant. - Look for gardens you like in your neighborhood or as you walk and drive around. Look now as well as during gardening season so that you can decide about what you want your garden to look like in winter. Often gardeners will be more than happy to ID plants for you if they are outside and you can get a sense of what you like. Your local library may have books that talk about garden design or have lots of eye candy (my favorite!) to look at now. One good one (but not huge amounts of eye candy) is The Well-Designed Mixed Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. Have fun and let us know how it goes.

I have a Texas native xeriscape. It must be watered. It just needs LESS water than a traditional landscape AFTER the first 3 years of normal watering. Nothing with establish in this heat. I would wait until fall. Shrubs and trees tend to be hardier than perenials and annuals. I noticed in your last picture the garden was mostly shrubs and trees with mulch. That is the bulk of my front yard. It's 1/3 grass, 1/3 shrubs&vines, 1/3 trees (doesn't look like I have a plan! fooled ya! lol.) Once the native/adapted trees,shrubs and vines establish they have very deep roots. Low water line watering works well. You'll also notice in the last picture (of your garden choices) the trees and shrubs extend all the way out to the street. This is important for depth. I notice a lot of folks cram all their plants by the house and leave the rest blank. It looks flat to me that way. Whatever you decide find out if your city offers free mulch and put down 5-6" of it down. The ground doesn't freeze here, so I'd do all the changes in winter. Also, I'd stick with light paint choices. The dark colors absorb heat, fade in sun and if it's hot enough (like now!) can warp.

Here's the deal on your house shrubs (from a horticulturalist). They've been improperly pruned for years, so to rehabilitate them would take some time and pruning skill. They look bad because all the growth is on top and they have an unnatural shape, thin on the bottom and flush on the top. That's what happens with improper pruning. So my advice, if you have the money, is to tear them out with no regrets, and get some smaller, prettier shrubs that will have a MATURE SIZE that will fit in with the scale of the house, and not need constant pruning. Yes, the new landscaping will look a little puny at first but the new plants will fill in after a short couple of years. First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they LEAP! But to achieve that affect you will have to be diligent about only buying plants that list their mature height on the label and then planting them leaving enough room around the plant so that when it reaches its mature height it will fill in the space. Live with the spaces in between for a couple of years, you will not regret it. Because if you plant the plants too close, after three years you will have to constantly fuss with them and you'll be back to the arduous pruning again. Also, get a book on pruning. I highly recommend anything by Cass Turnbull, my landscape design hero! "Plant Amnesty" Cass Turnbull's Web site, lots of good ideas here. Edited to ad: make sure to leave enough space between your house and the foundation planting that you can get behind the shrubs and so they don't grow up into the house and hold moisture against the house and also harbor pests like mice. Also, check out the inspiration pictures on Houzz or anywhere else on the 'net. Find a picture with a house similar to yours with a look you like and take that with you to the nursery. A good nursery with a plant person to help you, not a big box store. Or do some research on your own and make a list of what plants you like. Lots of great idea books out there, visit the library and have fun!