Certainly the Hydroban came with an instruction sheet ?

The hydroban and the Kerdi drain are compatible so I've been told everywhere.

My problem is the radiant floor heat in the shower I don't know if I should put in down then hydroban over the top or put the hydroban down and lay the wires over the top. I haven't seen anyone talk about this combination...I will look at johnbridge.com.

Nothing in any of the instructions about this combination but I think it is all valid but don't want to mess it up now.

Thanks

Sorry, Laz, but I disagree. The hybrid is a good system, and Henry has already promised that Laticrete would stand behind it.

Butterbeanee-- Let me ask you-- is there any reason you wouldn't just let the hot water from the shower warm the floor? I know alot of people think this is a great idea, but I'm not one of em. I don't like the idea of something electrical in the shower pan. That all said, if this is something you're going to do, nothing comes between the tile and Hydroban except thinset. (the wires would go underneath)

Bill- This is our experiment bathroom. My husband has gone back to school so we will only be here another year (or two, hopefully not three). We are on a very tight budget but wanted to try a few things that we might want in a future dream house. Radiant heat was one of them. It was very close in price and I had read that it was possible and some people loved it. Long story short it was a "what the heck" moment. Now that we have the extra length I don't think it can be shortened without breaking the circuit so I guess we we will give it a try under the Hydroban.

I'm of the same mind as Bill. The shower water will warm the tile just fine. However...

If this "Warming Systems" setup is cable, I'd bury it in the mud. Then Hydroban over the mud. If it's a mat, then I'd set the mat over your sloped mud bed, then cover it smooth, then apply your membrane over the smooth surface. I'd prefer Kerdi but Hydroban is okay. If you did Kerdi the floor then you could Hydroban the walls as I think Laz recommended.

I do not recommend having the wire above the membrane, nor do I recommend the membrane coming into contact with the wire.

First timers need to know what to look at. First timers in heated floors need to know that heat is related to your insulation and your building's structure. The thing to consider (and to express in your first post) is your subfloor material, how well insulated it is from your building envelope, and what you will be expecting from a warm floor. It is entirely possible that you will get a great warm floor that heats up fast, and it is ALSO possible that you will get a weak warmth that underperforms. The choices you make about everything other than the membrane are the factors.

The membrane is "topical", on top, above the heated floor. The specific membrane you choose is not relevant to any discussion about heating. Focus on the bigger subjects.

David- Good point and I think we are good with that. We have a plywood subfloor with spray in foam insulation below it then a crawl space. We will be putting it down over a layer of 1/4" durock then thinset and tile. I rechecked everything that came with the flooring kit (wires thermostat) and it came with a short and long set of wires so I'm think we will not do the shower now. It seems like it is just going to cause headaches for little return.

I don't get what "it came with a short and long set of wires" has to do with "so I'm think we will not do the shower now. It seems like it is just going to cause headaches for little return."

another, independent subject is the stability of your plywood subfloor in terms of tile. Flex, springiness, solidity, rigidity, etc. To be sure no hairline cracks develop. Unrelated to heat or membraning.

The wires can't be cut or shortened or it breaks the circuit but we can just not add the second set of wires to the system and it will be close to the square footage of our bathroom without the shower area.