Dennis, today was perfect for planting. I got out of bed at 7 am, planted for 3 hours (9 beds), and finished in my parka as rain started falling. This was mostly lettuce and collards, but also broccoli and komatsuna. It has now drizzled for 8 hours, with steady 50-55 temperatures, this is perfect planting weather, specially ahead of the coming mid-70 week. I hate early Sunday rises as much as anyone, but I hate more fussing over transplants during and after planting. In the case of lettuce, I just scratched trenches, laid semi-bare root plants in, and covered with some of my (semi-dry) planting soil, knowing that rain would finish the job for me. I can not do as good a job as nature did for me, to ensure no shock to the plants.

When you applied the lime, and which lime, could have an affect on how things grew. If done shortly before planting the lime would not have had time to make any change in the soils pH and many nutrients would not be available to the plants. Lime, to have much affect on the soils pH, needs to be applied several months before that change is desired. Contact your local office of your state universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what your soil looks like and what you need to do to make that soil into a good, healthy soil.

Mike, I had a friend who could eat onions like apples. I like them, but not that much. Kim, It has been more of a challenge than usual to harden off the plants this year. If I put them back in the greenhouse to get them out of ridiculous wind for a couple of days, they seem to regress (more than most other years) and then suffer sunburn or windburn more easily. The other day (maybe it was Wednesday? maybe Tuesday?) I had tomato plants out that have been staying out up to 10 hours a day, but the wind was gusting in the upper 30s and they took a real beating. They even sunburned a little. I think the 2 or 3 days they stayed in the greenhouse during the very cold weather just softened them up all over again. It has been a constant thing of one step forward, two steps back, and in some ways, spring always is like that here, but I usually have more wind issues in March than in April. I remember complaining to Tim that the wind wasn't blowing enough in March. It is a problem when that happens because plants don't harden off as much as they should to strong winds if they aren't having strong winds. Well, the wind has blown enough in April and the plants and I are tired of it. Some of the onions in my bundles this year were way too big, but I planted them anyhow. Those are going to bolt at some point. It is just a matter of time because of the size they were when planted. I planted all those overly large ones together about 1" apart to use as scallions, and they are more than big enough to pull and use now, but I want to wait and see how long it takes them to bolt, and then I'll pull them. By putting all the ones that were too big in one place like that, I won't be shocked when they bolt and I'll know they were the ones that were too big. It also will help me know if the other ones that were the right size at planting time bolt. Usually, I have very little trouble with plants from Dixondale Farms bolting, and when they do bolt, I know it isn't their fault---it is the crazy weather. We are due to have a bad onion bolting year because we haven't had one in a while. It may not happen this year, but if it did, I wouldn't be surprised because of the recurring really cold weather interspersed with highs in the 80s/lows in the 60s. Have fun planting. What I loved most about yesterday was that there was practically no wind, and also that the hummingbird wars were in progress, which is entertaining to watch. I try to spread the hummingbird feeders around the yard and garden far enough apart from one another that one aggressive hummer cannot defend two feeders at once. We have had hummers back for about 3 weeks and in good numbers, but yesterday we had about three times as many all of a sudden. I expect a bunch of migrating ones arrived at our place yesterday and our resident ones were trying to keep them away from the feeders. I am indoors making more nectar so I can hang 2 or 3 more feeders. At least it will be a low wind day so I won't have the wind blowing the feeders back and forth so much that the nectar leaks out of the feeding holes. Dawn

Always keep in mind that a stain that is darker than the stone is a true stain caused most likely by some type of staining agent. An etch mark will always be lighter than the stone and shouldnt be classified as a stain. Etch marks depending on how severe they are always need to be removed using abrasives on a honed surface. On a polished surface if an etch mark is light enough it can be removed using a polishing compound specific to marble. Would that process make it easier to remove stains or make the stone more resistant to staining? No I dont think so! The stone makeup dictates how porous or not it will be. When honed(marble)it should always be properly sealed with a high quality impregnating sealer. I wouldnt use the bleach and abrasive too often as you will drive yourself nuts resealing. Let the etch marks build up over a time period(or until they drive you crazy!)then try the do it yourself method or have it done professionally. I work on alot of danby in kitchens honed. I must report it holds up pretty well-yes it etches but I dont see many stains and so far they have been removed in most cases with a good poultice of hydrogen peroxide and talc or another absorbant medium. 2littlefishies- I think it is practical for vermont quarries to use that process and give a solution to their customers so they can ubderstand the stone and be more in control of their countertops. Is the process perfect? no There will be cases when a stronger abrasive will be needed to remove certain etching or scratching. Even pros will use one type of abrasive on the majority of the countertop but will use a lower grit or more agressive technique to get out the stubborn etches or scratches. Anyway in regards to your question I think a homeowner could do this at home as well but it is kinda nice that you dont have to refinish your new countertop after it gets installed. If you do have an issue down the road you have a way to repair it on your own. Stu Rosen www.mbstonecare.com