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Radon Passive System

12 years ago

We are in process of building our home in Cook county (IL) where it's rated zone 2 per EPA as having potential for radon. Before we pour our slab, I thought it would be a good idea to provide for passive system using 3-4" PVC. Our home will have a finished basement. My builder wasn't too familiar with but willing to do it before we pour slab and frame.

Anyone else thought about or have done radon system during build? I am not planning to have an active system (using motor in attic) unless testing shows otherwise. Is this as simple as it sounds as per EPA's website (see link below)?

Here's some info:

http://www.epa.gov/radon/rrnc/basic_techniques_builder.html

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Comments (4)

joyce_6333
12 years ago
I really am pretty ignorant about all this. But I can tell you our builder installed a Soil Gas Fan in our sump pump, which he said is supposed to take care of any radon and dampness under our slab. Our area generally does not have radon issues. I believe the fan was installed mainly for the ground water. But I stress, I am really pretty ignorant about this, and only repeating what I hear.
abdrury
12 years ago
For what it's worth to you radon risk could be unfounded. I believe even the EPA has some cryptic language burried in its publications that radon has never actually been linked to any human health issues. Might be worth looking into. Remember the EPA is a government agency.

That being said, unbeknownst to us our builder installed a passive "radon vent" from beneath our slab out through the roof. Said if we ever tested high we could just install a fan for possible mitigation.
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We lived in the Denver area 1989-1991, we had the home we were purchasing tested for the presence of radon as was the norm at the time. The house tested positive and the seller had to put in a radon mitigation system. They sealed the basement slab, put in a fan in the crawl space and installed some type of plastic barrier in the crawl space. When radon mitigation is done it means the home tested positive for radon, has since been treated and then has tested within acceptable levels for radon after the mitigation is complete. If the radon levels in the home you are looking at have been reduced to acceptable levels, then you and your family should be safe. I would still insist on a radon test before I purchased the home to ensure that the levels are acceptable.
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Venting inside is definitely against code! Eliminating radon is about dissipating it in the atmosphere and not allowing radon to collect in any enclosed space as concentrating radon can lead to creation of other undesirable radioactive products. Since radon system is sucking air from under the slab, it follows that it collects moisture from the ground (This leaves a drier and less humid basement as a bonus). This moist air is being dumped in your attic. If this builds up, it can lead to mold problems. Need to extend pipe outside. Exit should not be near an openable window. PVC drainage pipe is cheap, so extending it should not be expensive. If need to go through roof, a proper flashing boot must be used--much messier than if can go through wall(silicone caulk around hole is enough)
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@kudzu9 It is not an outlier among experts in the field whatsoever. The EPA adopted an idiotic model and basically public health organizations lined up behind them with no evidence to support their position. Science relies on evidence, not political weight. Radon levels in most homes being presented as dangerous is pure pseudoscience. "“Our results do not indicate increased risk of lung cancer from indoor radon.”" - Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 20 year study "As the radon level in the homes increases, the incidence of lung cancer falls" - Bernard Cohen, Univeristy of Pittsburgh, Tom W. Bonner Prize winner in Nuclear Physics "The EPA action level for reducing radon in homes is 14 times lower than the 'No Observed Adverse Effect Level' (NOAEL) The very low action level has been causing undue fear and unwarranted costs to many homeowners as well as a reduction in the market prices of their radon-stigmatized homes. It should also be noted that radon remediation significantly increases lung cancer mortality. To dispel the fear and eliminate this economic burden, the action level should be raised by a factor of at least seven, where the health benefit is near optimum." - Dr. Jerry Cuttler and Charles L. Sanders, Dose-Response, 2015 "Don't fear Radon Concerns at Home, they're Overblown" - American Council on Science and Health "Thus, residential radon does not appear to cause lung cancer but rather to protect, in an exposure-level-dependent manner, from its induction by other agents (e.g., cigarette-smoke-related carcinogens)." - Bobby R. Scott, Lovelace Respiratory Research Institute, 2011
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You will have to compensate for the additional resistance that 6-90˚ turns will add to the system as well as any lengthening of the pipe. That might entail increasing the diameter of the pipe, increasing the air flow with a stronger blower fan capable of greater CFM or both. In addition to accurate calculations and proper modifications being made, tested and verified, I strongly suggest re-doing 2-radon tests, one 3-month test and one 1-year test both analyzed by a nationally recognized and accredited professional lab! IMPO SR
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SpringtimeHomes
12 years ago
I kind of agree with abdrury that radon is an overblown concern. That being said, you dont want a high level of radon to blow a sale.

Passive radon is simple and would highly recommend setting it up passively before adding a fan. Whats great is that the system can double as sub slab drainage. Use perforated pipe covered with gravel run about 4' around inside perimeter and have it slope to daylight if possible.

I prefer to have the radon stack/tee exit the footprint below the slab which prevents two building envelope penetrations. Do it in a inconspicuous location perhaps near an outlet. Near the heat pump is usually a good spot.
sbkim
Original Author
12 years ago
SpringtimeHomes - thanks for the info. To minimize obstruction, I was thinking about routing the pvc through our garage and discharge through attic/roof. The problem with this setup is that it introduces about (one 90degree turns and two 45s). I know it's best have vertical but are these bends really bad for a passive system?

Also, we have drain tile in our basement which is connected to sump pump pit. Do we just want to utilize this or stub a separate pvc in gravel?

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