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Renewable Energy for the Home

Radon system

9 years ago

Can somebody tell me why there's condensation outside the radon pipe/fan in the attic? I was told there should be condensation on the inside during winter but it's on the outside. It was raining for couple days when it occurred. I understand the summer humidity can make it sweat on the outside but is humidity from the precipitation have the same effect during winter?

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Comments (5)

BrianKnight
9 years ago
Your radon stack exhaust termination is in your vented attic space?
ahold
Original Author
9 years ago
Yes, located in unfinished vented attic. And I wonder if will even condense inside the wall where the vertical pipe runs through
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I thought this reminded me of something... http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3277811/radon-mitigation-detector?n=2 Yes, the radon fan requires electricity. Unless you have one that runs on hamster power and some very active hamsters. You really should move the fan to the attic, and install a manometer in a visible area before the fan so you know it is working. This is normally a PVC pipe, and not all that difficult to manipulate. If you know how to move electrical, it isnt all that hard to put an outlet box up there for the fan either, otherwise you could call someone to come do it. It will be worth knowing how to deal with the radon fan anyhow, as they can fail like any motor driven device and usually all it requires loosening a couple fernco boots and hooking up the new fan.
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The reason I'm convinced it probably isn't a toilet rough in is because a) there is not an accompanying rough-in for a sink... Why would you rough in a toilet and not also a sink? and b) there is no where that this pipe could come up and into the sewer main unless it had its own dedicated line to the septic... We have 3 main sewer outs in the house, one of them is about 15 feet away from this pipe and is fastened to the basement wall about 40" above the slab, there isn't anywhere visable that this pipe would come out... RE RADON: The original house was built in the 70s, this part of the foundation is from the original build. There was an addition made in the 90s. There was never a radon system actually installed, until we moved in in 2000 -- Out Radon system is originates on the opposite side of the house in the addition's slab and vents out through the highest point in the house. My thought is this pipe was the rough-in for a radon system and probably runs a perforated pipe underneath the slab, my thought process here is also that this is right next to a load bearing wall that supports the point that was the highest wall in the original house
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No need to test, and you can't get readings in an open house anyway. A location allowing a straight run of 4" vertical pipe all the way through the roof should be pinpointed and at minimum a 3" PVC 'Tee' put into the gravel base at that location (with a stub that will extend through the concrete). A better solution is to install a 3" perforated pipe loop around the footprint within the gravel base that is connected to that Tee. The vapor barrier should have it's seams overlapping min 12" or have sealant. Doing at least these will make it so much easier later. Just a capped stub from only a "Tee" should be minimal cost, but if you can afford a larger change order now, have the builder install the passive system complete. Do the perforated underslab loop. Run the pipe through the roof. Install power to where a future fan would go in the attic. Seal any slab penetrations. Provide a sealed sump pit cover. After you have lived there a year, then test for radon levels. If you are high at that point, a fan may be all you need to make it an active system.
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That is pretty much the going rate to install a mitigation system. Another alternative is sealing everything, use of natural ventilation, or you can pressurize a room you work in or even an entire basement.
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BrianKnight
9 years ago
Well it shouldnt be terminated inside the attic for one thing. Condensation on outside suggest high humidity in the attic which is peculiar for the wintertime and suggest that there is a lot of air "communication" from the conditioned space below. Not good for Indoor air, energy costs or the radon situation in general. How old is the house and have you ever air-sealed the attic floor/ceiling plane? I would also consider turning down the radon fan if possible.
dkiehl
9 years ago
I have never heard of venting inside. I thought inside venting was against code. Since Radon gas is heavier than oxygen now you have 2 sources entering your house.
zver11
8 years ago
Venting inside is definitely against code! Eliminating radon is about dissipating it in the atmosphere and not allowing radon to collect in any enclosed space as concentrating radon can lead to creation of other undesirable radioactive products.
Since radon system is sucking air from under the slab, it follows that it collects moisture from the ground (This leaves a drier and less humid basement as a bonus). This moist air is being dumped in your attic. If this builds up, it can lead to mold problems. Need to extend pipe outside. Exit should not be near an openable window. PVC drainage pipe is cheap, so extending it should not be expensive. If need to go through roof, a proper flashing boot must be used--much messier than if can go through wall(silicone caulk around hole is enough)

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