Gotcha. I'd say do the shower floor just like it was a nobelseal shower floor. Run the membrane across the floor and up the wall studs/blocking to a height about 3" above the top height of the curb. Check into that 3" minimum, I think that's what Nobel recommends. It can be nailed or stapled to the studs at the top edge of the membrane. You can detail the corners as they are supposed to be. The thing to watch out with when using thicker membranes like Nobelseal is that several overlaps can cause the bottom edge of the backer board to get "kicked out" into the shower if the overlaps will be trapped between the backer board and the wall framing. Regardless, there are several ways to detail the corners, you can fold them, or cut and overlap, or use preformed corners. Or tuck the membrane into the corner. With tucked, just make sure that the tucked part doesn't flop down in the corner, you want the top of the tucked edge to stay 3" above the flood plain, or 3" above the top of the curb. Each corner method has its pluses and minuses, see which is best for you based upon your situation. That build-up when overlapping, though, that's why you'll see references to notching wall studs, etc, when using thicker membranes. Anyhow, after the floor membrane is installed, install your backer board on the wall. Hold it about 1/4" or so of the floor. Fill and seal that 1/4" gap with a Nobel sealant or its equivalent. Now if you were running nobel membrane on the walls, you'd run it on the walls and butt it to the floor membrane, sealing that butt joint with a bead of nobel sealant. However, since you're using Kerdi, you can do one of a few things: 1) Install the wall Kerdi just like it was nobelseal membrane, butting the Kerdi on the wall to the Nobel on the floor, and seal the wall-to-floor membrane joint with sealant. This might be the best way due to the uncertainties about overlapping Kerdi and Nobel that I'll talk about in a bit. 2) Run the wall membrane down the wall and lap it onto the floor membrane 3" or so, thinsetting the Kerdi membrane to the nobelseal on the floor. If you do this though, you might need to run a couple of beads of sealant between the Kerdi and the nobel where they overlap on the floor. 3) Any of the other typical "Kerdi" options, which would be running the wall membrane down onto the floor like in #2 above, or using Kerdi band to seal them, etc. Again, though, where Kerdi overlaps Nobel, you might need a couple of beads of nobel sealant. Regardless of which you chose, I'd call Nobel and Schluter and run the options past them. I think option #1 is pretty straightforward and safe. My concern is that while a Kerdi-Kerdi overlap can be made watertight with a 2" overlap and thinset, Nobel requires nobel-nobel overlaps to have two beads of sealant to make that overlap watertight. Essentially, the Kerdi-Nobel overlap is untried and untested, so two beads of sealant might be best. But it's still untested. However, (and it's a big however) the overlap really doesn't really have to be watertight. With the nobel floor membrane running several inches up the walls, it's like a traditional CPE shower pan. There's your waterproofing. All you really need were you to overlap Kerdi on to Nobel is that the overlap not delaminate. With thinset being able to adhere to the fabric of both membrane, that shouldn't be a problem.

I used to work in a bank; I ran credit reports daily, we looked at people's credit and scored it on our own system to determine their rates of loans etc we used to get two of the score then compute them with ours. Anyway, I learned a lot about credit reports. Here are things that affect your score: 1) too many open accounts. (it's a risk that you'll go off the deep end and start spending wildly or that you could be a victim of fraud) 2) address continually changes. Nobody looks at that but unless you're military, ability for creditors to contact you makes it difficult (part of my job was repossessing cars and also skip tracing people) 3) too many inquires on your credit. It's a red flag to creditors who think you are out to do a lot of stuff and about to become over burdened in debt you can't repay. So don't let every car dealer and dept store see if you're eligible etc for this or that deal. 4) too much credit card debt. What it is, is a balancing act. A good credit report will have say a mortgage, maybe a car and maybe one or two credit cards; if you have too much revolving debt, that's not good. 5) income to credit ratio should be balanced. In other words, if you make 20k a year, you should not have a very large amount of credit open to you (or debt to income ratio either) 6) charge off accounts. If you've not paid something and it goes into charge off status, you can bank on the creditor reopening your case and calling you just before the statute of limitations runs out. I HATE to say this publicly but I'm going to share a secret with you; do NOT pay it. Once you agree to pay back the debt, it goes back to open status and will remain on your credit report, for as long as it takes to pay if plus they can possibly (for a while anyway) see it was a charge off or delinquent. It's far better to NOT start payments again. 7) paying late - really, creditors will not judge you for a payment or two late. It shows up on there but they all know stuff happens. It's chronic lateness that's the problem. It's also 30-90 days overdue. We used to contact people at the 15 day past due mark to remind them and I used to give interest only extensions so they didn't go into 30 day and get reported to the credit bureau. So if you are late and can't pay, call the credit and arrange for interest only extension. You'll pay basically one month's interest extra and extend your loan an extra month. I hope that helps people. Oh and the longer you have credit but don't use it, the better. New credit is bad. And do NOT take out credit cards to save 10-20% one time. They have high interest rates, it's new credit, it's revolving, and it's a new inquiry... ding, ding, ding, ding... all bad.

Ummm... from the link you provided: SB 762 This bill makes it illegal to pass laws to protect animals from being de-clawed, de-fanged, etc. This is about big cats, lions, tigers etc. Either way, leave it to California to try and make it "illegal to pass laws to protect animals"

Did I mention we got an energy report? We saw that our bills were comparable to the past tennants 12 month history. Our utility bill states we are using about the average amount of energy compared to other homes this size in our zip code. and the energy report came from utility company? of course your bills will be comperable. consider the source of info. utility info is biased to favor utility co. same with the audits they provide...10-15% savings max as compared to 30%+ with independent evaluation. my clients save 50% on average once my recommendations are completed and work is verified & tested. without blower door & duct testing...it is just a guess as to where the house/ducts/returns leak. air sealing is the best savings. cheap to do, immediate results..long term benefit depending upon the life of the sealant (use caulk..expands contracts unlike foams) duct sealing next best savings. average homes have 30% duct loss. a bucket of mastic & a morning spent sealing ducts also has long term benefit with immeidate results. beating the heat before it enters the house trumps changing windows & doors. awnings, plantings, and solar screens. once the heat is inside..then you pay to cool it. the down side to 'average billing' is that at the end of the averaged cycle, you pay the amount you went over the average. for some people this can be a real problem. never insulate before air sealing. insulation filters air it doesn't stop it. only foam insulation stops air leakage and insulates. not great stuff... best of luck.