They have stock sizing. We used the 73" X 39" for our separate peninsula and had a woodworker to the sink cut-out and routing. We also used the Lagan (now discontinued) for the seat of our banquette, which DH cut and joined together himself; the joint is covered by a cushion. IIRC, Lumber Liquidators also sells BB countertops in longer lengths. Or did you mean deeper, as in from front to back? You may have to go more custom route if you have more depth. BTW, we have plenty of cut BB scraps, and none of them look like EmikoF2's. That definitely looks like a "bad" batch. So sorry. :(

Here is mine, which is inset into the granite countertop. I left 6" between the end of the butcher block and the granite's end at the sink - enough room to keep it dry from the sink, but perfect for a good 'swipe' of cuttings/crumbs into the disposal (small cuttings, we do compost). On the other side we had originally intended to take the block all the way to the end, but loved our granite so much we felt it would look better to leave 13" - and again, glad we did as it's the perfect 'landing zone' for groceries, and I set up my pasta roller there as well. The block itself was cut so that it overlaps the granite, keeping crumbs out - it works. I get it pretty wet at times, but it's held up like a trooper, and it's given a very heavy dousing of mineral oil every week - I literally pour it on, and it soaks up in an hour. Underneath the butcher block is our trash cabinet - wonderful also for swiping crumbs. I couldn't live without ours now. I love it! It is easy to keep clean, and I use it for all prep except raw meat, poultry, fish. I have plenty of other prep space, but this is perfect given the proximity to the sink, the trash, and central location. Ours is removable via screws underneath (drawers and trash cabinet door would come out to remove), so every year it gets a good dose of mineral oil on the underside, and if we sell the house we can remove it to sand down any cut marks, No cut marks yet (shockingly) but I consider that natural patina : )

Waterlox is phenolic resin (ie plastic) mixed with tung oil. It looks and behaves a lot more like a varnish than an oil finish. (but considerably harder than most varnish). It reportedly can be recoated without stripping or sanding. It forms a layer of finish on top of the wood. I tried some and didn't care for the look. I finished my 3" cherry countertops with Polymerized tung oil, from Lee Valley. 4 coats top and bottom before installation. I reoil every 3-4 months. Seems sturdier and longer lasting than mineral oil. looks very similar. I have two sections. one I sort of fastened down with two #10 screws in 1/2" holes and the second piece I never got around to putting in the screws. The weight of the countertop plus the caulking between the top and the backsplash seems to hold the top in place pretty securely. Which is a good thing because the loose screws (which are the recommended installation) would let the counter slide back and forth about 3/8". If I ever had to remove the first section, I would not bother repacing the screws.

Thanks to all of you!! I should have explained: The maple is 1 1/2" wide cut on the EDGE grain. This is more resistant to wear, is a longer grain, won't be blotchy. Each piece is the length of the side. There are no glue joints within the work area. Forty years ago, I used a product that was food grade and made the maple more golden, warmer, deeper. I can't find it any more. It was either based on Tung Oil or Mineral Oil. That old counter top is in great condition and being used in the laundry room. I use unfinished unsealed wood cutting boards for raw meat, veggies, fruit. I roll my pastry and knead my bread on the counter - which is meticulously scraped and cleaned. I have the underside of the butcher block to experiment with! Cookncarpenter: I'll try the tea on a scrap. Thanks for your kind words on the cabinet work! luckyblueeye: Thanks! The house is Arts & Crafts. There cherry clavos on the cherry, but on the island, they are stained black for a more furniture look. aurora Tee: Thanks for the link! Michael: I was thinking about the Boos! I'll try it on a scrap piece. Design Loft: Good info. Rest assured, I would never use a regular stain. I'm leaning toward the Mineral Oil. I'm going to try that on some scrap and also try a Mineral Oil and Beeswax combo. And some Tung Oil. Sophie Wheeler: All good points. I used to own a custom lumber milling shop. I learned that working with the properties of the wood you could often get away with the impossible. It's been a long time so I've asked the community for input and appreciate everything you have said.