When I took the brick off my hearth, the last row - abutting the firebrick - had the bottom edge cut off on the diagonal. The mortar was - trying best to explain, lol - flat on the whole hearth, but ramped up to make a slope up to the firebrick. So the cut brick fit where the mortar was sloped up the side of the firebrick. If I've been able to explain it intelligibly, could anyone tell me why this is, and if I need to ask them to do this on the slate slab I'm going to have installed? Or can I chop out this extra mortar and just have the slate flat bottomed and abutting the firebrick... TIA! Lisa

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Do you want to install a thru-the-wall air conditioner? It's essentially similar to a window air conditioner but instead of a window a metal sleeve is placed in the wall, in which the air conditioner sits. Another option is what's called split or ductless air conditioner. Although they're typically more expensive than a thru-the-wall model, the cost of installing the sleeve may eat up most of the difference. They also tend to be more efficient and you don't have a big hole in your wall that allows heat or cold into the room. You can also buy models that heat as well as cool, if that room isn't warm enough in the winter. Here is a link that might be useful: Ductless A/C

First off, any coating on brick regardless of how well it works is a maintenance issue for life. It might be 3 years, 5 years, 10 years, etc, but the coating will have to be redone/cleaned/touched up to continue to look good. Brick is supposed to be essentially maintenance-free. I believe that your in for a battle. The supplier gave you an inferior product. The installer put it up. Unless they are the same entity, the supplier is only liable to give you new bricks that are correct. The installer will be responsible for ripping out the old and installing new, which he most likely will not want to do. It may be more economical for him to walk away from the job and let you sue him then it is to redo the job. Then you're stuck with an unfinished job. The only way it will get finished in a timely fashion is to hire someone else and you foot the bill to correct the situation. Then you chase whoever you can to get your money back. If you didn't like it while it was going up, you should have stopped the work until it was done right. I don't belive that any contractor is going to willingly dismantle new masonry and rebuild it at his expense because of aesthetics. I want to add that: I don't think you're wrong and I don't think you're being unreasonable, but I believe you're in for a difficult time to get it corrected. I hope I'm wrong and good luck. FWIW, Maybe your best option is to tell them you want some money back and have them coat/paint it the right color at thier expense.

I like a tile saw. Because of the water reducing dust. The type with the larger diamond wheel and a sliding bed are awesome. Tilt blade is a must sometimes for corners. That saw in your link is called a demolition saw, or like the actual description a cutoff saw, the kids making the digital ad may not know it. I have a Stihl version and its a beasty. It is all about the air filtration on the saw, but water hookups are also a big deal unless you just have the money for the blades, They wear faster working dry. One with a set of wheels or a dolly helps long cuts. I use a water pickup vacuum when I use it inside. Silicosis is a real and nasty thing. Some guys use a dry blade on block, or where water is a problem, but a vacuum helps then also.