Thanks for the speedy reply Donna! I'll let you know how it goes :) I appreciate your help very much.

If the wool has, indeed, been effected by the very high heat, then I doubt there is anything that can be done to alter this......but, soaking them in fabric softner,etc wouldn't hurt to try.... (I'd just try it on one, to see.) But, think of a wool sweater that has been put, by accident, into the drier...there is nothing that can make it as it was before. I'm just so sorry this has happened...what a pity! Did you administer a good pinch to your husband?

This is definately a Beginner level pattern. There are some design elements, but not so many that you would get frustrated. While it calls for a specific yarn, any worsted weight will do. Skill Level: Beginner Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) The pattern is written for the smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Note: For ease in working, before you begin the pattern, circle all numbers pertaining to your size. Finished Measurements: Bust = 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)" Length = 22 (22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2, 24, 24-1/2)" Gauge: In stockinette stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side) with larger needles, 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4"/10cm. TAKE TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. What You Need: Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Art. 620, 80 percent acrylic/20 percent wool, worsted weight yarn (197 yards per skein): 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7) balls of Blue Heather (107) Size 8 (5mm) knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge Size 6 (4mm) knitting needles Tapestry needle Instructions: 1. Back: Beginning at the lower edge with smaller needles, cast on 72 (81, 90, 99, 108, 117) stitches. Knit 8 rows for garter-stitch band. Change to larger needles. Beginning with a purl row, work in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until piece measures approximately 15 inches from beginning ending with a purl row. 2. Armhole Shaping: At the beginning of the next 2 rows, bind off 5 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch on remaining 62 (71, 80, 89, 98, 107) stitches to approximately 21 (21-1/2, 22, 22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2)" from beginning ending with a knit row. 3. Neckband: Row 1 (wrong side): Purl 15 (19, 22, 26, 30, 34) stitches, knit center 32 (33, 36, 37, 38, 39) stitches, purl to end. Row 2 and each following right side row: Knit. Row 3: Purl 14 (18, 21, 25, 29, 33) stitches, knit 34 (35, 38, 39, 40, 41) sts, purl to end. Row 5: Purl 13 (17, 20, 24, 28, 32) stitches, knit 36 (37, 40, 41, 42, 43) stitches, purl to end. Row 7: Purl 12 (16, 19, 23, 27, 31) stitches, knit 38 (39, 42, 43, 44, 45) stitches, purl to end. 4. With the right side facing, bind off knitwise and loosely. 5. Front: Work as for Back, shaping armholes as before, until piece measures approximately 19 (19-1/2, 20, 20-1/2, 21, 21-1/2)" from beginning ending with a knit row. Work Neckband rows 1-7. 6. Neck Shaping: On the next right side row, knit 17 (21, 24, 28, 32, 36) stitches, bind off the center 28 (29, 32, 33, 34, 35) stitches, knit to end. Right Shoulder: Purl 12 (16, 19, 23, 27, 31) knit 5; turn. Knit across next row. Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures approximately 22 (22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2, 24, 24-1/2)" from beginning ending with a wrong side row. Bind off loosely and knitwise. 7. Left Shoulder: With the wrong side facing, join yarn at neck edge; knit 5, purl to end. Knit across next row. Repeat last 2 rows to same length as Right Shoulder ending with a wrong side row. Bind off knitwise and loosely. 8. Sleeves (make two): Beginning at the lower edge with smaller needles, cast on 41 (41, 46, 46, 49, 49) stitches. Knit 8 rows for border. Change to larger needles and purl across next row. Working in stockinette stitch, increase 1 stitch (knit in front and in back of the same stitch) each edge now and then every 8th row 10 (10, 11, 4, 2, 0) times more; then every 6th row 0 (2, 1, 10, 13, 17) times. Work even on the 63 (67, 72, 76, 81, 85) stitches to approximately 18 * (19, 19-1/2, 19-1/2, 19-1/2, 20)" from beginning ending with a purl row. Bind off loosely and knitwise. 9. Finishing: Pin sweater pieces to measurements onto a flat surface. Cover with damp towels and leave to dry. Join shoulder seams. Set in sleeves, sewing the bound off stitches on body to sides of upper sleeves. Join underarm and side seams. Weave in loose ends on wrong side of fabric. A good place to look for patterns is the Lion Brand site. Their patterns tell you what the level is and can be trusted. If they say Beginner, they will be just challenging enough. But not so much that will frustrate you.

This year I will be having an addition put on the house that includes a laundry room (no more in the basement and 2 flights of stairs:) but in the meantime, for years, I have used an extra large wood folding clothes dryer rack (folds like an accordian)and the dowels are extra big too. Got 2 new ones at an unpainted furniture store. Well worth the price. Some things I have noticed over the many years is that wood absorbs the moisture so there is minimal imprint on my sweaters, the rack takes up little room and can be stored easily. I have one in the basement and one in my 'exercise room' for some things that don't completely dry in my dryer... The other thing you might consider is what my friend in Scotland has (and can be gotten here) are the slightly curved racks that are on a pulley to lower, load, and then raise up to the ceiling for drying. They come in all different sizes. You didn't say how high your ceilings are, but this might be an option for over the machines rather than a shelf....and something I may install myself.