The manufacturer of the polycarbonate sheet recommends using a foil tape at the top of the sheet and a mesh tape at the bottom. The mesh tape is manufactured by 3M and is available at Farmtek, International Greenhouse, and some other suppliers. I believe it is the same product as the mesh tape that 3M sells for use in hospitals for wound dressing but it might be more expensive buying it in that form if you need a lot. I used this method on my gh and its still working fine after two years. In a pinch, you can use aluminum tape on the bottom, but you then need to puncture it with a pin, a couple of small holes per channel. Its better to do it the recommended way, I think.

Sort of gooster - there is adjustment, but.......... The range still factors having weight (of a panel) on the door. I'm not positive on Bosch, but Miele's won't zero out unless you remove the springs which would be a real pain and more expensive than buying a piece of scrap plywood. Sure, lots of things could work instead of a panel: Duct tape, magnets, glue and bailing wire, chewing gum, one of those suction handles marketed to elderly people that you see on late nite TV, a bin pull with surface mount screws, and on and on. Point is - none of them (Bosch included) is DESIGNED to be used with out a panel installed. Really, are most people buying a $1000+ integrated DW so strapped for time and cash that they cant go down to the homecenter and pick up a piece of wood ?

Thank you, iowascrapper... I've never heard of the adhesive eraser and will give it a try. Again, many thanks!

ronnatalie....I've re-read your e-mail and realize we may be talking about two different things. 1. All the wiring in the house that has been replaced over the years has a hot/neutral and a ground. The neutral bar and the ground bar are connected at the base of the panel. Kind of forms a big "U" around the hot post which the 30+ breakers are hooked onto. Think the electrician took some measure of pride in his work as almost all of the neutrals are on one bus bar and all of the grounds are on the others. But, again, they are connected at the bottom (is that bonding?). 2. The large copper wire in the lug pictured in previous posting does go to the water metal pipe, but as the neutrals and grounds are bonded together, there is a neutral lugged from the service to the top of the other bus bar. 3. My initial post was expressing surprise that the metal breaker box itself was not grounded. The tester touching a hot post to the metal box. Shouldn't that complete a circuit? Just making sure this thing is safe before I move on and ask other questions. Thanks for your input.