I think akchicago is probably right..... I believe your problems is that the ignitor has failed and does not put out enough amperage to keep the valves turned on for the burner to use as fuel. (it is most likely that only one of the ignitors has failed and the other is still working) So essentially, the burner comes on for a minute or so then it goes out because the valve shuts off. This happens on and off continuously, and the oven just cannot get hot enough. Watch the oven and see what happens. If the burner comes on and then shuts off after a short period even though the oven is not at the right temperature, then this is your problem. You can see the flame come on below the metal plate at the bottom of the oven cavity. If this has gone on (on/off ignitor cycle) for a long time, then ignitor can actually completely fail and does not glow at all. Which means that only 1 of two burners will show coming on. Either way, I would try replacing the ignitors first. If both burners come on (even for short periods of time), that means that the burner is working fine. All gas burners more or less work on venturi principle (the tube with holes) and it is extremely hard to make them fail because there is no moving parts or electrical parts. Most burners fail due to metal breakdown, ie heat or rust. I doubt that this is the problem. I just replaced my Viking ignitors for about $60.00. You can replace them with any ignitor that is shaped the same. Do the search on line for how to replace these ignitors. I have multiple apliances with gas burners and I have never had a burner fail. I have had many ignitors give me trouble, however. This is the nature of these appliance. If someone tells you that it is the burner, then they have to show you failed burner, ie rusted/broken down metal tube. Otherwise, they have just swindled you. Ceramic ignitors are used in nearly all pilotless gas burners, ie gas furnaces, ovens, gas fireplaces etc, and they go out after certain number of cycles. Most BBQs do not (cannot without electricity) have these since they use spark type of ignition. Viking part was about $100 to $150 each and you need two of them since there are two burners in the oven. If you or your spouse is handy, this is a very easy job. We chose to use after market part for less than 1/2 the price. (We bought them on e-bay. Try Viking oven ignitor search) We decided that even if it failed after couple years, we know how to replace them quickly and cheaply. It's still going strong after countless pizza bakes. BTW, by the time the repairman comes and replaces the ignitors with Viking parts, you are out minimum $500. This is one of the reasons a cheap gas range would not get ignitors replaced but tossed! Good luck. I am a very happy camper to have my oven back for $60 total so we can make our weekly homemade pizzas.

Do not buy the GE Cafe Stove/Range!!! Nothing but problems..... I bought the GE Cafe all gas range in May. First time I used the oven, it shut off automatically. No error code displayed - just the digital clock was illuminated. This same problem occurred over and over again - at 350, 375, 400, and 425 degrees. Sometimes it would shut off in the pre-heat cycle, but mostly while I was baking or cooking dinner. Incredibly frustrating and a few baking recipes were ruined. Repair Technican came out - said needed new control panel. But the panel was back ordered. GE replaced the stove under warranty at the end of June. We were away for all of July and August. Started using the new range beginning of September. This 2nd GE Cafe stove is even worse than the first one - this range has 5 problems. 1) This oven also shuts off automatically while trying to bake something in the oven. Cancel button has not been touched - often goes off when I am out of the room - so I know it wasn't accidentally stopped. 2) All six knobs across the front have melted - they all need to be replaced. But I wonder if the replacements will melt as well in the future??? I have never broiled - and GE thought I had this problem because I had broiled something. Realistically - I should be able to broil without the knobs melting! 3) One of the burner knobs turns on whenever you touch it - you don't have to push it in to ignite the pilot - it turns on with a mere touch - very dangerous as it can be turned on without you realizing it. 4) The oven door does not line up properly - there is a larger gap on one side compared to the other 5) Gas leaks out of one of the top burners - even when the indicator knob is in the 'Off' position! So we now have the stove disconnected because we don't want gas leaking into the kitchen and house. GE wants to repair all the problems. But the Control Panel is still on back order and won't be here until the middle of November - it was ordered on Sept. 17th. So I don't have a working oven until the middle of November and that is only if it arrives on time - they won't guarantee arrival of the back ordered part. The valve to stop the gas leak is supposed to arrive at the end of next week - so another week without a stove or cooktop. Can't run the gas because it leaks until new valve is installed. I wish I had never bought this piece of junk. And I am not the only person experiencing these problems - many others have documented the same issues. Why doesn't GE fix this before they keep selling this defective model to unsuspecting customers???

If you haven't done so already, you might reset the breaker. Even a 15 year old GE range has a control board and it's possible it's just out of wack from an electrical jolt. Leave the breaker off for about 30 seconds. That's where I'd start - always try the easy and free stuff first. The oven igniter or the relay for the oven may need replacement. Get spouse to lift the oven floor, maybe also take off the drawer and take a look around. He should be able to watch the ignition sequence. It might help. When our 7 year old profile died, we did that - found a bad igniter with burnt wiring and rusted out areas around it down there. That's when the repair started to be pretty expensive. If yours isn't burnt, the igniter is pretty inexpensive and an easy surgery. It's just as likely that the control board is dying and you need a new one. I've never done that kind of surgery, at 15 years old, it's pretty much due though. I always laughed at a relative's jennaire. She spends about $500 every year to replace its board. Just so you know, this is pretty much the entirety of what I know. I got through most of life cooking on old ranges with pilot lights - crap, but I never had a range repaired until this year.

We remodeled our kitchen in 2009 and went with all GE cafe products. We regret it everyday and have separate issues with each of the products. - The GE cafe 30" stand alone oven with warming drawer - while one of the burners is super powerful, the smallest burner is useless. And every time we use the warming drawer we blow a circuit (not the oven's fault but worth mentioning). - The over-the-hood microwave....we have replaced it x2. Each time the touch screen panel has gone out because it cannot take the heat from the range. - The fridge continues to make ice even when the ice maker is full and something inside the fridge makes a loud clicking/banging sound (just one bang) several times throughout the day. It is so loud that it makes us JUMP. - The dishwasher spills water on to the floor but the seal is good. Frustrating. We have had GE repairmen out several times and they each have stated that they have never done as many repairs as they have done for the Cafe series. They are beautiful but I swear I will never purchase appliances from GE again.