For most systems, capping off some sprinkler heads will make the operating water pressure higher. The right way to build a system is with a pressure regulator before the valves, but that can add almost $100 of cost so most people skip it. Without the regulator, pressure will depend on the flow. Most water mains exceed the recommended water pressure for sprinklers. Mine comes in at about 110 PSI. Sprinklers like to run around 40 or 25 PSI. The reason it usually works is there are so many heads on a zone that the valve restricts the flow and brings the pressure down. When you cap off some heads, the pressure goes up. Many valves have a flow control option and if yours does, you can adjust it to bring the pressure back down to the optimal level. If your valve does not have flow control, you can implement your own with a gate valve in series with your sprinkler valve.

Now that you know you have a PRV we KNOW you have a closed plumbing system and the 100psi spikes are the result of thermal expansion. You can refer to the link 14 posts above for a detailed explanation of thermal expansion. The PRV creates a closed plumbing system. Since your internal pressure is 60 psi we can assume that portion of the PRV is working. We can prove that if we know the street side pressure. The N35B does have a built-in bypass feature that limits the internal pressure to 10psi above the supply pressure. I don't trust the built-in bypass because the intent of a closed plumbing system is to prevent back-flow into the main system from homes. Click here for N35B details and read the TROUBLESHOOTING section CAREFULLY. You may be experiencing the dribble now just because the new fridge has a valve that is sensitive to excess pressure. The bypass on the PRV might have just failed and is now causing you a thermal expansion problem. That is why the preferred thermal expansion control device is a thermal expansion tank. Here's what I would do... 1. Measure supply (street side of the PRV) pressure for reference and to know how much the PRV is reducing the pressure for future troubleshooting. 2. If the PRV is not reducing pressure then replace it. 3. Install a thermal expansion tank at the cold inlet for the WH and sized from the link 14 posts above including a 1/4 turn ball valve so the tank is easily serviced in the future. 4. When that is done, if the fridge leak persists then back to GE, BUT, without a receipt from a plumber you may be banging your head against a wall with them unless you get a GE tech that has field experience and is knowledgeable.

"interior lines bathrooms and kitchen and basement. all was changed." We know some lines were changed,the problem might be those that were not changed. If only a single line between street and facuet look's like the one in picture,it will slow flow. "And yes water is slow flow" Again,we know that but you are asking why it's slow and what to do to fix it. The guage I told you to buy will help find why this is happening and how to fix it. You must realize you are our eyes if we are to help you. I don't mean to discourage you but if you don't have time and determination,tell us,we don't want to push you to do things you don't feel comfortable doing. If you just bought this house,was seller supposed to fix this before you took possession? If so,they are not finished. Trying to fix it does not forfill that obligation.

@Karen Williams This is the control panel on my tankless water heater. Water Set Point ... the output temperature the unit feeds into the hot faucets ... can be set in 1°F increments between 50°F and 140°F. Temp Up and Temp Down buttons adjust the Water Set Point temperature. Then press Temp Set to make it the normal at-all-times temperature if desired ... otherwise the adjustment is temporary and will revert back after a number of minutes. I have 103°F as the "normal" temperature and raise it when needed for washing dishes or clothes, without pressing Temp Set, and it reverts back to 103°F after 30 minutes so I don't have to remember to do that. That's just how my unit works, they're not all the same. Setting the temperature "at the faucet" means I set the water heater to the temperature of heated water I want/need "at the faucet" ... such as 103°F for a shower, instead of 120°F or 135°F which is much hotter than needed for a shower ... and I turn on only the hot faucet (or set a single-lever faucet to full-hot with no cold mixed-in). Thus, the tankless unit has a high-enough flow rate passing through it for the duration of the shower to insure it doesn't shut off due to too-low flow. 120°F, 135°F, 140°F output temperature requires mixing in cold water and turning down the hot flow at the faucet to get a comfortable shower, which reduces the flow through tankless possibly below the required rate which can cause it to shut off completely and the shower goes cold. Remote control panel means exactly that ... some tankless water heaters can have an optional extra temperature control panel installed at a convenient location such as bathroom or kitchen so the homeowner doesn't have to go down to a basement or out to a garage or wherever the heater is located to adjust the temperature. My heater doesn't have a remote control but it's located in a broom closet in my laundry room behind the kitchen near the center of the house so is easy to access any time I want to change the setting.