So then you're both suggesting that I tie them back on either side of the window? Or where are you thinking? I don't think I have vertical room on the window side, the curtain would then still hang into the tub, and we wouldn't be able to use the bath. But wait--I guess I could rest them on the window sill during baths and let them hang the rest of the time? Would that look ok? They would hang into the tub. Or were you thinking of a way I could hang then behind the back of the tub, sort of like I have it arranged now? Thank you very much for your replies. As you might imagine, shower curtain talk is not a very interesting subject to anyone around here but me, I really appreciate your responses. And I love the idea of getting fabric in the bathroom in a non-voluminous way (if that's a word).

Yup, never really gets wet. The inside of the "shower door casing" and the "shower door jamb" are both tile. Only the outside casing is wood. Oil-primer, two coats of paint, the joint between the wood casing and the tile jamb is caulked. Water would have to go out the door and turn 90 degrees left or right to hit the casing, or I'd need a lot of splashing off the floor near the door. That just doesn't happen. I'm actually in the process of doing a similar treatment on the tub surround in my kids' bathroom. They have a standard shower/tub setup, on the front wall of the tub I built a wall with an arched opening that you step through to enter the tub. I'm going to tile the arch tomorrow and then do a painted wood arched casing for the bathroom side of the opening. You can use non-wood. There are urethane foam moldings that can handle water with ease and they take paint well. There are also extruded PVC trim materials like Azek. But with those materials, you're sort of stuck with the profiles that they offer. In my bathroom I wanted the door casing to be similar to the details on the cabinets, the mirror frame, and the window trim, and since I made those, it was just as easy to mill the door trim too. Same with the kids' arch. I could manipulate the non-wood materials to suit my needs, but poplar is easier, faster, and will stay dry enough. You could use another wood that has better water repelling abilities if you're wary of poplar. I do recommend backpriming it as well as hitting the end grain cuts with primer.

I don't see why you could use regular curtains. Tab top would work well for the sliding but if it were me, I'd either find a curtain I like and use clip rings or attempt to make one (assuming there wasn't a busy pattern because I'm not the best with the sewing machine.) They even make that fusible tape you can iron your hems. Since you're suggesting lodge/cabin, my first thoughts are plaid. Maybe you could find a thick plaid sheet. Annnnd after typing all that I realized you already have a rod with your liner and there aren't holes in the "new shower curtain" we're talking about. Are you considering using two rods? One higher than the other? I personally don't think I'd keep the curtains pulled back to the side since it's a shower.

Thank you all. The curved rod was selected to provide as much feeling of "openness' as possible. Installing the shower required taking out a window. So maintaining a feeling of spaciousness is wanted. We've purchased a liner with weights in the hem. If they're too light, we'll either replace or supplement them with a chain. In addition, we'll have the rod installed a few inches lower than typical. Hopefully the extra length will help things stay in place