As I always try and point out, testing during a failure is the only way to be 100% sure about what is wrong, and then especially to prove that the car is genuinely repaired. That being said, the Ford factory scan tool, such as the IDS that I have will access the PATS system and even allow me to monitor which button is being pushed on the drivers door pad. The seals on the door button pad fail and eventually the contacts start to corrode and you can end up with symptoms that would match your description. Another symptom associated with this button pad corrosion is the interior lights can come on by themselves, which occurs if the BCM senses that one of the buttons has made contact. On my scan tool I would see either a NO for no button pushed or 3/4 as in if the BCM thinks it sees the 3/4 button pressed. A false or incorrect response from the keypad while monitoring the scan data is all I would need to confirm the pad is failing. The odds are better than 90% you will need to replace the key pad on the drivers door.

Your actually one of the few if the policy has paid for itself. Think about it, they wouldn't sell them if they didn't make money on the deal. As far as not showing much sympathy, I'll plead guilty to that. However there are some pretty strong mitigating circumstances. Imagine doing business where the warranty company treats you as if you don't have any right to operate in a profitable manner. They want to set a labor rate that is below average, and then often times attempt to cut out parts profits, which are necessary for the survival, and reinvestment in the shops future. There are times when even once all of the nonsense is dealt with, the car is repaired (correctly) and then picked up by the customer who only pays the deductible, the shop ends up waiting for the final payment which in some cases never comes! These problems force us to have to take the position of the customer pay us the same as any other customer would, and then they wait for what ever reimbursement the warranty company wants to pay back. Its turned into a serious PITA on occasion, and can be a complete distraction from the principal operation of repairing the car completely, and correctly the first time. As you said in your case the policy actually already paid for itself. But this time you got caught in one of their "Hot Potato" games. You have my sympathy, but its not to be shared with THEM.

That's where I want to move to also! My friend who lives in Corvallis has two rose bushes, one of which is Gertrude Jekyll. Here in Albuquerque, GT is a prickly mess that blooms once in the spring. Hers is a mannerly shrub just like a HT, that has no more prickles than most, and blooms all summer. Yes, I think the altitude is the problem. The difference between day and night is 30-40 degrees, and this means that in the Spring and Fall, although the days can be warm, the nights can be below freezing. In the summer, with nights in the 60's, the days are in the 90's or above. I think it is hard for the roses to grow just during the ideal time of the day. They don't start growing in the spring until the night temps are consistently above freezing, but this means that the days are in the 80's, and it is a brief time before the day temps are too hot. Also, at this altitude, I think it's a lot harder for the roses to keep up with the transpiration - just like the rest of us. It just evaporates quickly into the thin atmosphere. Water too much and the soil is waterlogged and the roots can rot or get fungal disease. Water too little and the plants have a hard time growing and a harder time blooming. If the plants are just not genetically able to manage the water (too few feeder roots, to many stomata, poor vasculature) or the sun intensity, or the temperatures, they won't grow, or the flowers are small and fry. I notice also, that the same roses that grow well in the valley don't necessarily grow well in the foothills where I live. That 500 feet or more difference in elevation can make a big difference, and I'm at a slightly higher elevation than Denver.

Then you're area is warmer than ours in the winter. I guess I'm still not sure about using the cloth as opposed to a heaver mil clear plastic to keep warmth in. I do know pre-watering helps with freezing. I'm up early enough to remove anything if needed. RE: hardening. A friend told me to use a leaf blower on the lowest setting, at a distance if necessary, to harden off - I thought that was rather unusual, but perhaps it helps, LOL! I didn't have time this year to start anything early (we're remodeling and trying desperately to finish up in the next few months - it's already been over a year of living in a mess). Why are you thinking of changing to some spray heads? Curious if I need to alter my plans. I'd thought the spray heads hit the lower branches and sometimes promoted rot, disease, and pests... am I wrong? So new to this, and any advice appreciated. Your dripworks setup is similar to ours. I just ordered the small kit to start, as I wasn't sure how much of what I wanted and needed only very little mainline. We've got pvc buried underground from the spigot at the house to the interior of the larger fully enclosed garden... The chicken wire 'wall' that separates the two areas is where it comes out and where the filter and restrictor are located. I'll run the mainline all the way around the 1 x 12 that separates those 2 areas, drilling holes in the 1 x 12 as needed to run the mainline. The driplines will come off the main tubing. I've left the drip line off for now as hand watering this winter is easy, and I want to blow out the water in the buried PVC to winterize. ETA: Aw, here's a pic: I've never heard of straw bale gardening, but then I'd not heard of winter sowing before either, and that was a monumental success for all the new flowers this year. I think I'll plant a single dwarf tomato plant in a planter on our patio... I know it'll need extra watering, but it'll be a good test to see if the birds peck at it. Past tomatoes were decimated if not covered. Lost every gooseberry and blueberry this past summer as I'd not covered them adequately with netting... I'd picked off most buds anyway to promote root growth (first year). I'll be better prepared next summer. The rock stacked around the perimeter won't be mortared - I want to be able to access teh 1 x 12 around the garden to remove it when it rots away. It acts like a raised bed, but isn't. Everything is screwed, not nailed. Alright, I've another question - and by the way, thank you Jamie for guiding this vegetable newbie! I've room to plant 6 tomatoes plants this spring without overcrowding. It's just the 2 of us. Will I have enough to freeze or can? I'm guessing the answer depends on how much I harvest, right? Heirlooms of 3 varieties, but not sure which. Also, for what it's worth, I've been burying all my veg scraps and every so often coffee grounds (no citrus, no meat) in the garden area I've not planted. Hoping to have it compost naturally. Sound ok?At some point, I will quite bombarding you with questions!