In my opinion and maybe I am more critical and perticular than others. But a frontend mechanics/techs that don't align the frontend with the steering wheel being centered shouldn't be aligning vehicles. That is one of the most important part of the alignment. The first thing you do when you pull the car/truck on to the alignment rack is to center the steering wheel. And the second thing is to check the tires. Make sure they are the same and adjust the air pressure to the correct amount. A difference of a couple of pound of air can change the alignment. The next thing he should check is if there is anything heavy in the trunk or back seat that would effect the alignment. And if so ask the owner if the item is there all the time. If not get it removed until he is done with the alignment.(This happens a lot when people are at the mall shopping and want the car aligned while they are there). And then start your alignment. And another thing a lot of them will do is they will try and make all the toe end adjustments on just the one tie rod instead of both to keep the steering wheel centered. Also some steering rack have a pressure switch/sensor that sends a signal to the computer. It tells the computer that you are making a turn and will kick up the rpms to compensate. If the steering wheel is not centered the rack is not centered. I am not sure if your rack uses one or not. This is food for thought when you are searching for a frontend person. Now did he do anything to make something loose in the fron end? I can't say he did or not. But to change a strut when it is on a lift. You should support the lower control arm. Remove 2 bolts that hold the strut to the spindle and the 3 nuts that secure it to the strut tower.(sometimes there are brake line brackets and ABS wire clips and etc.) That wouldn't cause anything to be loose. Unless the nuts and bolts aren't tight. Now what else he did in between who knows. This is where you want a mechanic/tech that you can trust and know he is GOOD. HTH Bob

Apparently, the replacement wheels were not designed for your car. Those are wrong and the heart of your problem. Do what kalining45 said above. I have made a similar mistake. It was in the era when autos were changing from shoe brakes to discs on the front wheels. I tried to put a wheel on a disc brake setup and that wheel had come from a drum brake version. I nearly did major damage when I began to tighten the lug nuts. The wheel interfered with the caliper.

Wouldn't this be tricky? There is a little hole in the wall where I installed the sconce so would need to drill a hole in the wall and fill up this existing hole, or have a wire go from the hole to another place.

I agree with most comments above. Those three openings are indeed framed to be matching in height, the stuff over the door and under the header is "filler". If someone is blaming "engineering" or something of that nature, they are uninformed in all likelihood, or perhaps they are the party that ordered your door too short and want to deflect the blame. Does is look awful now? No. Its not that out of the ordinary. That said, whatever you signed off on is what you should get... or be compensated for not getting it. If there was some note of a standard sized door that you perhaps missed, then it is what it is. If not, and everything shows it as 8', then you are owed an 8' door or a compromise that meets your approval. Adding a transom to the top of that isn't the worst idea. Do keep in mind that this is a bind even if it is an ordering mistake that they admit to, windows and doors are experiencing significant manufacturing delays so you wouldn't likely see the new unit for a while.