Thanks for your time. It does have a solenoid and it does click when I turn the key. IT is definitely not the gas cap vent or the fuel filter. The line from the tank to the filter is ok, but I wasn't sure how to easily check the line going to the engine without completely taking it off and running gas through it. There is also something else on the line I'm not sure of. IT is after the filter and it is a black plastic container about the size of shoe polish or chewing tobacco containers. One line comes in from the filter, one line goes out to the engine, and a third line goes down to what I think is the exhaust (??) I don't have the manual. I suppose a parts diagram would help. Perhaps this is the solenoid you speak of? Or at least part of the fuel pump process or whatever. I should probably mention that prior to this problem it did occasionally cut out after say an hour of mowing. It would begin to rev up and down alot, and then cut out. I was told I had the throttle too high and since lowering it I haven't had the problem until now. Also there is a problem with the alternator/regulator draining the battery. I find that if I keep it charged I can cut my whole lawn before it runs out so I wasn't worried about having it serviced anytime soon. I assumed these two problems were completely unrelated but figured you might know something I don't and this could be the clue that helps figure out whats going on Thanks again

Great. I think I'll go out and purchase one! Especially since it seems that every time I pull out the paper filter after mulch mowing, a good bit of dust comes out after tapping it. Couldn't find any info from Briggs on washing the pre-cleaner...just regular soap and water, just water or something else to clean it? And I guess no oil (not sure if a 675 series is horizontal or not)...just let it dry and put back in? Thanks

IMO depends on how long it been setting. No harm in trying to clean it out by reading the instructions on the can. which equates to spraying the outside off, removing the air cleaner spraying several doses down the carb. venturi while the engine is running at a high RPM. I lay the red nozzle over any metered holes I see and spray directly into them. Especially it you can find the vent to the bowl. IMO If this still don't work, Most cases it does. You may have to remove the carb. bowl and clean out the junk. Sometimes you can do this on the engine and sometimes you have to remove the carb. either way clean out the bowl and float area by spraying the heck out of it. Naturely you would want to spray any metered passages you can see also. IMO If that don't work then you can to try to adjust the carb. alittle by riching up the mixture. Note where you started so if it don't fix it you can return it. You can also count the turns in on the needle valve then remove it and spray carb. cleaner directly down the mixture hole. Then, reinstall the needle valve a the proper revolutions usually 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns. Now IMO if that fails you have no choice but to remove the carb. and do a through cleaning and replacment of parts as mentions above, but not required in all the time. I have removed the carb. on my 34 year old tiller several time and cleaned it an have never replaced a gasket or o-ring. I just cleaned out a kolher 14 HP carb thats at least 12 years old, it was so bad it wouldn't start. all I did was clean it up inside and out and didn't put any new parts in it and it runs great. Once the gas turns to hard chips from sitting in the bowl and sticks to every thing these pieces start floating around leaning out the mixture. Now only choice you have is to clean it out, don't mean you have to by 20 to 30 dollar kit to do so IMO. I rarely have to replace parts. For equipment setting causing the carb to gum up. Now IMO it all this still don't help you may have an electric problem especially if the engine is old enough to still have breaker points All of this is MY OPINION others may and usually disagree.

I always remove the battery, use Stab-bil in the fuel systems,and replace used oil,prior to seasonal storage.Haven't had the problems mentioned.Engines with outside mounted contact points,perhaps the point surfaces become oxidized during periods of non-use.I still believe "in The ounce of prevention thing.But for those that don't,fight with the self inflicted problems,or get on the waiting list at the reapair shop,and bring pleanty $$$$. tbk