Mountain Laurel can withstand full sun in many climates. In your particular case, however, I think the heat will be a serious problem. You're in a warm climate zone, the kalmia will receive direct sun all day long plus the reflected heat from the wall behind it. In the height of summer if not before, I do think this will be just too much for this species. You'll very likely have problems from winter sun as well. It's also not a great choice for providing screening, either. It's naturally quite a slow grower and the small leaves do not provide much in the way of the kind of cover you're looking for. It would be fine to move it now. Many shrubs can be kept to the size you want by pruning. I'd ask the nursery for their recommendations.

When my father worked for Rheingold beer in Brooklyn NY in the 60's a copper tube came from a refrigeration unit which dripped mercury into a floor drain. That wasn't bad enough, after learning that this stuff could be sold for $90/lb. at the scrap yard, he (and I a 10 year old at the time) took home tons of this stuff to sell. Of course I played with it, submerged my arm all the way up to my elbow, a container fell over in the station wagon, vacuumed up most of what we could get. The rest remained there for a while until it all evaporated. To make matters worse, my father coated our silverware with the mercury and all 6 of us kids ate with this stuff until it finally returned to a dull silver color again. I can�t say that anyone really has any ill health effects from this exposure. My mother was even pregnant at the time. This is pretty amazing considering the exposure had to be pretty extreme for most of us. Though I don�t doubt Mercury�s hazard to human health. I wonder how much of this stuff ended up on the floor of NY harbor since this was a common practice back then.

Mercury absorbs through skin very slowly. The danger from playing with liquid mercury is almost nil, unless you are bathing in it. Same goes for ingesting it, surprisingly enough, and yet we worry about mercury in fish. Inhaling it, however, is the quickest way to a problem - precisely the issue with a broken bulb. What percentage of the folks who purchase these bulbs do you suppose have any idea how to dispose of them? Or how to clean up if one breaks? Should we have to go to the EPA website to learn proper disposal of a household product? What about those folks without computers? Talking about mercury from a power plant compared to mercury in my home is comparing apples to oranges. I haven't got a coal power plant within 500 miles. I do, however, have a very open floor plan that would make it impossible to close off a room for an hour prior to cleaning. Ridiculous. I am not an alarmist, nor do I generally worry about chemicals. But, I am not happy to be told by politicians (who know nothing about the chemicals they legislate) that I have to use something that I have determined is not good for my family. Where I live, there is no place for homeowners to take florescent bulbs. Put them in a plastic bag and they go to the regular landfill, or drive them 50 miles and then pay for the privilege of getting rid of them. If we bothered to take all the extra driving that every homeowner would have to do to properly dispose, those "energy savings" calculations would change drastically, not to mention the preponderance of plastic packaging. It's a classic case of knee-jerk political reaction. The ONLY people who will benefit from the legislation are the folks making the light bulbs.

Couldn't find the exact diagnositics manual, but here's some interesting comments on a similar Amana Heat Pump: "I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works." "I had a problem with the heat not coming on in really cold weather. After much reserch and trial and error I a came to the conclusion that the heating coil was not coming on. The cool will reverse on the first stage, heating coil will come on in the second stage. Take the front cover off of the unit. Unscrew the screws on the wire mesh and the two screws on the front below them. Pull out the wire mesh and put it aside. Slowly lift the heatng coil assembly striaght up. Grab the area you just took the screws out of. Once you get the coil out you will see the wires are conected to some terminals. On top of one of the terminals it the MANUAL RESET. It does not say it but it has a button on top. Mine was the one on the far left. Push it in till it clicks. Reassemble the unit in reverse. Mine works fine now." Found at fixya, http://www.fixya.com/support/t1197063-amana_ptac