>the mirror will need to not touch the ledge below it. over time, say 5 years or so, water and cleaning agents will seep up behind the mirror and create a black line at the bottom of the mirror. You need enough space to no allow water to wick up behind the mirror. Kind of puzzled by this. I can see that this would be a big issue for mirrors that come to the countertop, but I have 30 year old mirrors that are actually supported by the backsplash, and they're just now starting to go at the corners, which I don't think has much at all to do with that.

I thought I was losing my mind - I replied on another forum LOL -- here it is C & P --- Well \- alot of us that glue glass to glass use "GE Silicone II for Windows and Doors." It will hold great \- ( and it's clear ) but you'd either have to glue the item laying down so it won't slip \- or if you have to glue it vertically \- you'd have to tape the cups in place till it dries. The best thing about using silicone \- is when you are tired of it and want to change it \- a razor blade will scrape the whole thing off. Those pictures are just awesome ... such wonderful decorating ideas !

I'm new to this site. I am a stained glass artist but am now going to do my first mosaic. I have an old wooden cabinet that has two glass doors. I will be cutting out the main 'story' pieces from textured semi-transparent glasses and plan to adhere all of this to the existing glass on the cabinet doors then do the mosaic work around it. I plan to incorporate some nice flat stones I've collected from various places I have vacationed at into the art piece. I have removed the doors so that I am working on the horizontal, so there is no problem with waiting for the adhesive to set. From what I am reading, It sounds like "weldbond" may be a good choice. I would like it to dry clear. I plan to use black grout in the project. There are lights inside of the cabinet that will illuminate the project when finished. I am hoping I am on the right track. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

you could pre-cut the tape with scissors before applying it to the mirror. I would think that a peel-off product might lift some of the paint (but I could be wrong). Or, instead of tape, use contact paper or something similar for your mask; that way, you can leave the backing on to dry fit it to the mirror.