probably kids sticking thing in holes or you live in the drought area of the country? I just use pressure washer or garden hose (course pressure washer would be better), then bottle brush, pressure washer, rinse with gas or alcohol. Course you just can't stop there. replace the fuel lines, filter if it got one, clean the carb. change the oil, and check the air filter. Remove the spark plug spay 5 second blast carb. cleaner down the hole. motor the engine (pull the rope several times) to blow out any carbon while priming the combustion chamber. Clean the plug, check the gap, hit it with carb. cleaner install it and fire it up after you put gas in the gas tank.

Thank you all for the fast responses. I do intend on having the problem resolved before we use the dryer - the question I had was who to call first. I think I will start with the appliance company to make sure the air/fuel mixture was adjusted properly. This should be zero cost to me since we paid for a white glove service and should be covered under that. The dryer we ordered was LP but they shipped a NG unit. A service tech had to come out and put the converter in - but I suspect that there are adjustments that need to be made. Once I know that the appliance has been set up correctly - and if the long yellow flames persist - then I will call the gas company. They will gladly come out - but I have to pay for the call if there is nothing wrong with he service. My house is at 1250 feet above sea level. Perhaps the appliance was set for sea level performance and needs to be adjusted for my higher elevation. Again - thanks very much for the very quick responses. I will post back once I have the problem resolved.

As long as your T&P valve on the WH is repeatedly bleeding off excess pressure then nothing bad should happen BUT I'd want the problem corrected sooner than your plumber seems to want to get around to it cause if your T&P valve sticks closed then possible BOOM and it is now August. When a PRV is installed and adjusted the plumbing system in your home becomes a CLOSED system and that necessitates the installation of a thermal expansion tank. I'd also replace the T&P valve in the WH at the same time BUT make sure the new T&P is an exact replacement in length and temp and pressure for the one that is installed in the WH from the factory. The aproned ones at the box stores think T&P valves are all the same and whatever is on the shelf fits all but it doesn't. In my experience you might have to really search to find an exact replacement T&P valve and don't let ANYONE, including plumbers, tell you it doesn't matter. As far as cost, I've learned that plumbing always costs more than you expected, but it has to be done. Call a couple other plumbers and ask for a free quote. With the proper water pressure faucets, fixtures, appliances, hoses, and toilet flappers will last a lot longer before needing attention. This post was edited by justalurker on Sat, Aug 10, 13 at 17:54

I 100% agree with Lurker. Having said that and figuring you will hire plumber #3 to do it,here's some additional advice applicable to any repair,be it your car or home. ALWAYS put complaints/problems in writeing then insist contractor put the proposed solution and price in writing. NEVER ask a neighbor/online pals or anyone else what you need then tell contractor what procedeure/part you want them to install. It's perfectly fine getting opinions but in the end you are wise in doing as I reccomend. If you had done that from the onset you would have nessary leverage to force the plumber(s) to fix it or refund your money.