I have seen the patch in the link below used to cover holes where subsequent access might be required - think piping behind a shower faucet. The linked one is rectangular, as are all that I personally have seen. If the exhaust is flush with the ceiling, you may want to look at these. In that the exhaust infrastructure is going to remain in place above your room ceiling, I would suggest that you do not want to "repair" your ceiling so as hide the current exhaust. It would raise a red flag with at least some buyers - and as a retired Naval Officer, I have bought and sold many homes and would rather be confronted with an "opportunity" - to simply add a pellet stove should I wish - rather than a "concern" - what is the condition of the hidden piping. Here is a link that might be useful: Plastic Access Cover This post was edited by saltidawg on Wed, Mar 12, 14 at 10:03

It looks like the bolts are in an anchor---if that is spinning, there is little hope of getting the bolt removed. You might try using a hammer to hit the bolts sideways/up/down/at all angles to loosen it in the brick. If that works, fill the holes with patching compound, smooth and paint. If that does not work, cut them off and grind them flush with the brick and patch.

Beautiful!! I just picked up about a dozen bottle caps at park last time I was up there for craft class. They were nice & clean & not bent, usually they are!! I had seen cute little lapel pins on "Craft & Decorations" forum before xmas last yr, I think resin works great. I've never used it. Guess I should check it out. Love the colors you used too!! Come by anytime!! Jan

I'm assuming you are talking about a beam to support the joists of the 2nd floor. There is no code issue with installing the beam into the floor system of the 2nd floor. We do it all the time with both LVLs and steel I beams. The structural engineer will need to size the header and load points as well as make any adjustments to the foundation or footings. What we do is build temp wall to either side of the existing load bearing wall. We then remove the wall and cut out the joists for the width of the beam to be installed. You can then raise the beam into place and hanger the existing joists onto it. Install your load points, and increase foundation as needed before removing the temp walls. If the engineer sizes an LVL beam that will be taller than the floor system go to a steel W8 x whatever is needed to ensure it fits within the 2x10 floor system. Pack out the beam with 2x material and through bolt it. This will give you something to nail your hangers to. Code does not allow anything to be drilled into the beam so plumbing and electrical will need to be rerouted. In this ceiling we have a steel beam with two sets of LVLs attached to it and the floor joists so we could remove off set load bearing walls in this 1950s home. It's carrying a story and a half above. It can be done!