The abs and low trac lights are likely related. ABS is the anti-lock brakes, and TCS is the traction control system which needs the anti-lock brake module to function correctly. The TCS lamp will come on with just about anything that sets a trouble code in not only the ABS but also many of the fuel injection system hard faults will cause it too. The TCS operates by the computer first quickly detuning the engine when it senses one of the front wheels spinning, which it detects through the ABS wheel speed sensors. Then if necessary the ABS actually starts pulse locking the brake on the wheel that is spinning, and that causes power to transfer to the other wheel, increasing grip, and reducing wheel spin. I suspect you have an ABS system issue that will need diagnosed. The red arrow down lamp is a good question, I can't think of what that might be off hand. First suggestion is to check the owners manual and see what they are using that for, but of course somehow I expect your gonna say the car didn't come with the owners manual. I'm away from the shop so I can't even check my information system to see if its listed, but really I would not expect it to be, or at least it will be difficult to search for it by what the light looks like.

Take your car to a shop before you blow up the engine from an over-speed. There are several things that may cause your problem. The first step is to read the trouble codes and get a good diagnostic by a qualified technican. From your description, it seems that the transmission is misbehaving, but this may not be the fault of the tranny itself. It could be other things like a bad sensor or low manifold vacuum. The "4" on the RPM thingy is probably 4000 rpm.

I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand am se 4 cylinder. I noticed that when i stop put the brake, then accelerate the car likes hesitates or like it wants to stop, Then i have to press the gas pedal about 2 times and the car goes. Whats the problem?

Hello, Just joined the site & at first I thought I found a site where MOST of the members that do the MAJORITY of posting where nice,courtious, and most of all KNOWELDGEABLE, yet after reading these responses I've come to the conclusion that it's just another ROMPER ROOM with a few MAIN CHILDREN that think they know it all. Below are the postings that I'm referring to : (1) "" Posted by chad_said (My Page) on Sat, Aug 25, 07 at 10:43 Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem. As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well. "" To Child # 1--AKA chad_said: You need help. Your response was at best, the response I'd expect to hear from a rookie hot-shot, (so they think), Engine designer. Unfortunately, I deal with your kind ALL DAY LONG & after 38 Yrs. in the Design phase of Automobile building I've found that when given enough rope...You'll hang yourself. This next guy (child #2) cought my attention because he ACTUALLY BELIVES everything He's saying & I hope to GOD that He gets out of the Automotive repair Business, (if he really is even in the FIeld), and pursues a career that's commensurate to his qualifications, like Toilet Bowl Cleaning. Here is THAT Childs Post.... "" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 8:30 Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap. Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur. These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free? There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing". Oh and I almost forgot this LAUGHABLE description of his " ROLLCAB" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 12:08 FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL WHAT Planet is THIS guy living on ? A FORTY EIGHT x FORTY x FOURTEEN (FOOT) "rollcab" ? Like I said earlier, another ROMPER ROOM and THESE two are probably in the corner more than anyone else. Good Day to all of the REAL posters out there.