Could be a carb diaphram issue (pinhole or slight tear) also could be dirty carb and air filter or out of adjustment . Review Previous Threads on carb cleaning and adjustment . We have gone over these items numerous times . I have indicated to Ceezaah an effective carb tuning sequence that may well assist you . Ensure you have fresh gas good spark plug and treat the fuel with a concentrated cleaner treatment . Let us know how you make out . Depending on how old you trimmer is it may require a carb kit and overhaul .

Using the cap that is on the bottle, I add 1 capful per gallon of gas. That is probably about 1/3 fluid ounce. You could likely add 3X that amount per gallon and not notice anything (smoke) in the exhaust or on a spark plug. I mainly use it as a precaution against the possiblity of an intake valve sticking during storage. That occurs when the gas that gets on the intake valve stem (it's exposed in the intake passage) evaporates and leaves sticky residue that does not evaporate but can actually begin to "crystalized". The idea with the MMO is that when all the volatiles evaporate out of the gasoline film, there will be a light film of MMO remaining on the valve stem that spoils the "stickiness" of the other residues. It does not require much MMO to achieve a light film and that's all that is required. Another possible benefit of adding some MMO is that it will leave this light oil film on all surfaces of the fuel system, providing some lubrication and corrosion prevention for those components.

"Well, I dunno the specifics of the exact design you reference, but could that not be automated by a relatively inexpensive machine?" Not any more than the process of tightening a nut on a ring terminal. "Who cares how long it takes if its being done by cheap labor in Mexico. :)" Likewise for the process of tightening a nut on a ring terminal. Both can be done in Mexico. But it's easy to mess up a solder job, and crimping a terminal, too. In fact, tightening a nut on a ring terminal is a much simpler operation. "Nope, never have been, never will be." That's good. "Are you, perhaps, an assembly line worker?" No..just someone who can discern between engineering and assembly problems. It doesn't matter how well it's assembled if the product isn't engineered correctly. One clue that you're dealing with an engineering problem and not an assembly problem is when it's a pattern failure--where many of the same model suffer from the same problem. In addition, part of engineering's job is to design something that can be assembled easily...without compromising the design. I do not accept the idea that engineering has to compromise their design to make it easier for the assembly line worker to assemble it. An engineer that does is probably just not a very good engineer.

I don't know about your Pontiac, but I do know about my wife's '97 Saturn. These are both GM products, so maybe there is a similarity in their theft deterrent systems. For our Saturn, if you lock the car with the remote key fob, this arms the security system and to disarm it, you must also unlock the car with the key fob. If, instead, you insert the key into the lock and unlock manually, it will activate the security system, and then, you must wait the time-out period before the car will start. The time-out period can be up to 30 minutes. So, the drill is: if you lock with the key fob, you must unlock with the key fob. Does this fit your situation?