Sounds like the reversing valve is not changing over. They do that alot of times when you first use the other mode... going from heat to cool the first time. Most of the time you can just tap on the reversing valve a couple of time and it works fine but like Mr. Havac said above, your better off calling a Tech.

The outside unit comes on and it appears that the outside fan is running like normal. I turned the ac off last night after it ran for 4 hours and the tempature did not change because I did not want to take a chance of it damaging anything by running constantly and not bringing the tempature down. It was a cool night so the tempature stayed at 73 on the 1st and second level overnite. I turned the ac back on this morning to see if there was any change and to make sure that the compressor was still coming on and it has been running for 3 hours straight. According to the thermostat it has been at 70 degrees now for 1.5 hours and it still han't cut off. In the mean time the unit that orginally had a bad compressor (3rd floor) and was replaced has been on and off keeping the tempature at 70 degrees. Should I still have the HVAC company come out? The unit is cooling but not like it was prior to them servicing the unit.

Sorry, I get so much to reply to I don't usually get back to these posts. You need to e-mail me because I may never see your replies & questions. If my memory is correct, around 35 years ago occassionally the compressors had higher BTUH ratings than the condensing units. Laxer49 I just checked your page & my birthday is on Dec 8th, too, I will be 73. Those 10-SEER condensers' used to do real well. If the E-Coil has a leak it should be replaced anyway. Laxer49, If it were me, I would put a New half ton larger BTUH rated Coil in there with a TXV refrigerant control. If you can get a real good deal on a new 10-SEER with that combination & the correct tightly sealed ducts & airflow it should cool okay in the hottest weather. If you want the most cost-effective payback I would do all I could to reduce the radiant & other heat gain as the insulation will also reduce the heating bills. The Installation is the most important thing, it has to be done right! Read & learn allyou can. Funkeruski, I suppose they replaced the evaporator with a matching TXV controlled coil? Everything has to be performed just right & even then if it is real hot & the indoor load is also heavy it may not equal the old unit which would have a larger BTUH capacity compressor on that 4-ton condenser. Those high SEER tests are performed under rather light load conditions. The SEER of a system is determined by multiplying the steady state energy efficiency ratio (EER) measured at conditions of 82°F Outdoor Temperature, 80°F Dry Bulb and 67°F Wet Bulb (near 50%RH) indoor entering air temperature by the Part Load Factor (PLF) of the system. (The PLF is supplied by the government.) IMO, they ought to be tested at 95 or 100-F outdoor temperature. Which SEER do you think will perform better at 100-F plus ambient temperatures, the one with the larger capacity compressor or the smaller one? You could slow the blower CFM down to keep the suction pressure & E-Coil temp somewhat lower, but that also drops sensible capacity some. At 82-F outdoors, the 15 should do real well against the 10. Just my viewpoint. udarrell _ 2007 Here is a link that might be useful: udarrell.com

Nope he didn't check anything other than a couple of quick temperature readings. I'd say he was in and out in about 15 minutes. I set the CFM myself before he came over. They had left it at factory setting (400CFM/ton/3 ton/1200CFM total) at the initial install, and as i was correcting wiring (hooking up 2nd stage heat, humidifier, dehumidify) I checked the dip switches and set it for 800CFM. I couldn't get comfortable on this setting so I set it back to 1200 for a while, but humidity was too high so now its back to 800CFM. I'm finding out that these guys cut a LOT of corners. When they came for the initial quote the guy spent about 10 minutes in the basement and outside looking at the furnace, then took a rough measurement of the foundation and went to his truck for about 5-10 additional minutes. I reviewed the quote and he had checked a box "yes" that asked if the ductwork was sized for 400CFM, and had written in some figures for Manual J heat/cooling loads. I understand that it is impossible for him to have calculated these figures in the time he spent in my home. He did not look in the attic and didn't ask about the windows, etc. Also did not measure ductwork or count number of vents. After the visit a few days ago temps have been slightly better, however yesterday with a peak temp of 100 measured by my IAQ's outdoor sensor the best the system could do was 77 degrees. I'm going to see how everything does over the weekend where temps should be in the high 80s and if it can't hold a reasonable temperature im going to stop being so polite with these guys. Also, I went through Lowes, and the guy from Lowes was present when the quote was written so he had to have known corners were being cut. Overall I'd say this is by far the worst $6k I have ever spent, and I really wish i could just get my old system back.