i just got a hr214sx given to me as the self propelled feature doesn't work. (not a hydro drive. its a two speed drive that's entirely mechanical) drive shaft disconnected at the engine and had been for awhile, slip joint rusted not allowing it to be re-connected easily, spinning drive shaft manually while holding bar lever did not engage rear wheels. pulled trans and split cases to inspect internals. with the exception of the ring and pinion, everything looks perfect and functions properly. the ring and pinion dont look bad but show wear. i can get the trans to function properly by ensuring the pinion is not allowed to travel towards (probably .006 to .010 in.) the ring center. keeping it 'pre-loaded' (like a car/truck's pinion would be) allows it to function properly. is this typically what fails (the ring and pinion) to cause this style drive to not operate? most everyone seems to love these old mowers (that ive read about). am i crazy thinking of putting appx. $175.00 into it (right now, it's zero)? i'm sure that gear oil was in the trans. anyone know for sure what type, weight, amount it takes? the front wheel bearings are bad. i am thinking of going to the local bearing/seal co. and finding replacements that are of a higher quality than the originals. anyone found these to be one of those 'weird sizes' that you cant find in the aftermarket? sorry for the long post.

Call this number and Bill can help with parts and your problem Bill 1-800-609-5110. The worn bearing is the rear one and should be replaced. Remove the tine cover and the rear cap. Drive the main shaft to the rear using a "Dead Blow" or shot filled mallet. Don't use a metal hammer or you will damage the shaft. The bearing will come out with the shaft. The front race should just slip out. Drive the old bearing off the shaft and press a new one on. You can also slip a new bearing on the front if you choose. Remove the seal from the front cover and replace the cover and bearing race. Slide the shaft in until the front bearing seats in the race. Slide the rear race in and add shims as required. Bolt the cap up. Test for end play and add or remove shims as necessary. Once everything is ok, install the new seal at the front, add gear oil and go. I can supply the parts. Bill 1-800-609-5110

I bought a pair of those at Northern tool link at tractor supply, although mine were 8" and has a 1" bearing bore, i have been using them a couple years now and they have held up ok, BUT, the tires didnt, one winter on them and they started splitting in the sidewalls, not small cracks either. And the tires were actually about 1" narrower than a Carlisle tire with same tread and specs. The tires didnt even have a name on them, just "China" If you have a Tractor Supply store near, i would go take a look, i didnt pay as much for 2,8" wheel tire's as one costs at Northern.

If you "hammered" the old bearings out to remove them and they went crooked you may have damaged the bore. Always "press out" a bearing and "press in" the bearing only press on the fitted race (as mowie describes) and it takes "very little" grease. At this point I would take the wheels and bearings (old and new) to the dealer that sold you the bearings, if every thing is OK they will probably press the new bearings in for you (very little charge), if something is now damaged they will supply whith new (and that could be a charge). Good Luck