Strange thing about amperes is that they ARE pushed through a circuit and it is the voltage potential of the system that accomplishes the pushing. "Amp draw" is a term that describes how much current a device will use or consume but in no way does that imply that amps are drawn or pulled solely by the device using the flow of electrons. An analogy is to compare the flow of electrons in circuits to the flow of water in pipes. If you want to flow a greater amount of water from point A to point B through a pipe system, you can accomplish that in 2 ways (or a combination of the 2). You can increase the pressure pushing the water and leave the pipe size the same and you will flow more water. Or you can increase the diameter of the pipe and leave the pressure the same and you will flow more water. Or you can increase the pipe diameter AND the pressure, and you will flow more water. The analogy here is voltage potential equates to water pressure. Pipe diameter equates to circuit conductor diameter. If you increase the system voltage potential, you can PUSH more amperes through a conductor of the same diameter. Or you can use larger, heavier conductors and push more amperes at the same voltage. This is precisely why the automotive industry decided to go to a 12V standard years ago. With the 6V systems that were in use prior to the advent of the 12V standard, all the components (starters, generators, other motors) had to be much bigger because the internal windings had to be larger diameter to allow enough amps to flow with only 6V potential pushing. All the wiring on these vehicles was bigger and heavier too for the same reason. Another benefit of using higher voltage potential is the fact that the higher voltage systems are less affected by corrosion in connections. Reason: The higher voltage can push or bludgeon it's way right through minor resistance where a lower voltage system would develope an "open circuit" at the point of resistance. On the other side of the coin, consider the military electrical standard of 24 V or 36V in some cases. This standard allows equipment to use smaller and lighter wiring and components while minimizing potential problems from dirt and corrosion, particularly beneficial to aircraft. To finish this analogy, consider that voltage is to an electrical circuit what a pump is to a pipe system. You arrange the pump to PUSH water through the system because it is most efficient to do that instead of trying to suction or draw the water. You can only lift water by suction a few feet, but you can force it up to great heights under pressure. It's the same with amps. You can't draw them or attract them to flow in a circuit, you have to push them along with voltage to get them to do any work. The term "amp draw" really refers to the amount of current that is required to operate a device (or that the device will use) under it's normal design voltage. If the system voltage drops, then the "amp draw" will increase, and catastrophic overheating of the entire circuit will result. One thing you can always count on. Electrical theory will always "spark" a debate.

"Star: Seafoam or any Oil Conditioner Cleaner will not harm your engine if used in moderation . Even small amount of transmission fluid will clean up valve carbon issues or sticking rings. Normally only req'd on older engines" SeaFoam is a good cleaner for old engines that have been neglected, but so is plain naphtha. If you desire to spend your money on overpriced chemical cleaners, then have at it. If you use a good quality synthetic in the engine and change it on a regular basis then you donÂt have to worry about using an engine cleaner. Using SeaFoam in the oil for "normal" use is foolish. Walmart shelves are burdened with many oil additives and all of them are snakeoil.

I like the battery rundown protection feature also. It will save a lot of batteries and alternators, not to mention the frustration of finding that the car won't start and having to jump start it. Also, any battery that's run down to the point where it won't start the car should ideally be charged with a battery charger at a slow rate. Alternators hit the battery with a strong charge and in many cases the battery won't ever recover unless it's charged more slowly. A car battery that's never deep discharged can last a very long time. I've had them go 10 years before. Leaving the lights on to the point where the battery is stone dead -- not even enough voltage to produce a glimmer of light in the headlights -- will essentially ruin its chance of a long life. I'm not necessarily saying run out and get a new battery if that happens, but at least charge it with a charger and don't just let the alternator do it. And realize that the lifespan of the battery is cut every time that happens. Here's what a good battery can do for you: Last March I had the alternator fail in my Blazer. I was 70 miles from home. It was night, so I had to have the headlights on. I had a Wal-Mart EverStart battery about 1 1/2 years old, never deep discharged. I turned off all accessories except the lights and started heading toward home. I made it 69 3/4 miles -- it finally quit when I was on my road and could almost see my house. I think that's pretty good for headlights on and no alternator. So now that battery has been somewhat deep discharged, but nowhere near as bad as leaving the headlights on, because those will just keep sapping power until it's down to nothing. The Blazer's computer apparently shuts things down when the system voltage hits about 10 or 11, because it was showing 11 on my tester when I got home; probably under load that would be 10 or maybe less. (First it shuts off the overdrive in the transmission, then the ABS, and finally the ignition system.) According to the charger, it was at 41 percent. So I charged it with the charger, replaced the alternator, and that battery is still in there, doing okay. But it may not last as long as it would have if that hadn't happened. (On the instructions that came with the replacement alternator, they said if the alternator has failed and the battery is run down, it is not just recommended but is absolutely necessary to charge it with a charger and not just expect the alternator to bring it up, because doing that will shorten the life of the alternator.)

I agree with Dcarch, give yourself sometime to get used to with your new kitchen. Then, do more research. I did just this. I used inexpensive pots and pans for awhile when I first moved in this home. After a few years, I knew how I wanted to fixed up the kitchen. I got it refaced and fixed it up to be more wheelchair accessible. After almost a year later, I began to research and shop for decent cookwares. I've learned that plain stainless steel (SS) cookware is not good enough. I've learned about multi-ply such as tri-ply and 7-ply cookwares. I narrowed down to Calphalon SS tri-ply. I purchased a set because it was more cost effective. However, I chose a small set and a set that included most of the size cookwares that I know I'd be using. I've actually been using them all. Then, I began to add with the individual pieces that I need further. I later added another non-popular brand name SS tri-ply set that were made in 1 piece of tri-ply as the Calpholon's. That set worked well too. When using the SS cookware correctly, they do fairly well with non-stick including making sunny-side-up eggs. As for extra non-stick and thicker pans, I chose cast ironed pans. All of these satisfied my budget and my cooking needs. They still are after 5 years of using them.