yno, My cost/benefit trade in this area resulted in a cellulose insulation package with geothemal heating & cooling. The second runner up was a foam insulation package with HE heat pumps. Both of the options were about the same total cost. I used Anderson A400 windows and patio doors with 3 point locks & 4 sided seals on the face of the doors. Many of the windows are casment and provide a very tight seal. I also have a lot of patio doors in this new home, and I found in other homes I have lived in that the doors were always a major source or air infiltration. We also had the entire house caulked on the inside - and we did use foam in areas where the cellulose would not stick well (like between ceiling joists at the walls) or between large gaps in the framing (like on the corners of angled walls - between the studs). After all of that effort, I am very pleased with the results for both consistency in the house temperature and the monthly bills. However, I discovered that i need to add a few additional components to the HVAC system which were not part of the original design ( but should have been). The first is a de-humidifier for the basement. We found that the moisture levels in the basement were very high during the summer and since the house is sealed tighly, no way for it to move out. We started noticing spots on the concrete floor when we would have temps in the low 70's but humidity levels in the 60 to 70% range. I bought a whole house dehumidifier and that cleared up that problem immediately plus got rid of a funky smell which we now know was related to the moisture build up. The second device that I will add soon is a whole house Energy Recovery Ventilator. We need one of these because the house is so tight we are not getting movement of stale air out and fresh air in like we should. The ERV provides a heat/cooling/mositure exchange so that it minimizes the energy losses when you bring in unconditioned air from outside. I plan on using IAQ thermostats (Honeywell makes a nice one) that provides integrated control for the HVAC unit plus any humidifier, de-humidifer, or ERV that is tied to it. On one hand I wish that my HVAC contractor and builder had included this in the design - or at least brought it to my attention. On the other hand, I have learned a lot (mostly from the GW forums) and have saved a lot of money by installing the humidifiers and de-humidifier devices myself. A good source for HVAC components and info is www.iaqsource.com. One of the best investments you can make is the purchase of a few good thermometer/hydrometers which cost about $25 each and can tell you what the moisture levels are - I have one on each floor. Any moisture level above 55% is high. In some cases we were tipping the scale at 75 to 77% - and that is very high. Best of luck.

There are quite a few shower heads that fit your requirement, if you're looking of economical as well, Speakman heads are reasonably priced and give years of excellent service. Tankless are usually gas. It depends on the fuel that you use to heat your water, but tankless units gtive good service. they are "on demand" units, so they only heat water when it is required. Other alternatives are what you mentioned, another smaller tank-type heater located in the bath, usually electric. Last is to replumb a loop in the hot water supply line, you can add a small circulating pump. That will keep warm/hot water in the supply line so you don't have the hot water lag time. That does use energy. Are you existing pipes insulated? Foam insulation is not terribly expensive. Under floor radiant electric mats are god for taking the cold out of the tile, but they aren't much in the way of a room heater. For a room heater, Runtal Towel warmers give off enough heat to actually heat a room. Electric for year'round towel warming, Hydronic if you only want warm towels or a warm bath when your house's hydronic loops are running. CFLs have come a long way. Faster and more coompact ballasts result in fast decent lighting with good color rendition. A huge improvement over the CFLs available just a few years ago. Dimmer switches can save a little. Using an timed switch like the ones from EFI to control your fan will result in the vent fan running as long as it needs to, but not longer. That may prevent you from forgetting to turn it off. Just a few ideas. Mongo

I always enjoy threads dealing with energy-efficient homes, as our plan is to, within the next few years, build a home that is as energy-efficient as possible. Like teresa b (above) originally considered, we have thought about an ICF home and geothermal. The ICF concept is still almost unknown in our area. A few years ago, we attended a home show, and not only was ICF not represented, no one with whom we spoke knew what we were talking about. Fortunately, I have located a builder in the area who has some experience with the Logix ICF system, so I hope to speak with him in the future. Another interesting thing -- at a party last night, I spoke with a guy who has one of those Hardy (brand) woodburning furnaces, the type that is located outside the home, with underground lines connecting it to a heat exchanger located in the standard heating system. It also preheats water going into the water heater, to save on water heating costs. Something else I will consider!

Perhaps you would be interested in the article I wrote regarding energy conservation. Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss, resulting in increased energy costs. The same air leaks that cost us heat loss in the North can cost you cooling loss in the South. thanks, Mark D. Tyrol, P.E. Battic Door Attic Stair Covers PO Box 15 Mansfield, MA 02048-0015 tel. 508.320.9082 fax 508.339.4571 email: mark@batticdoor.com web: www.batticdoor.com Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter - Overlooked Sources of Heat Loss in the Home, by Mark D. Tyrol, P.E., www.batticdoor.com - November 2004 Imagine leaving a window open all winter long the heat loss, cold drafts, and wasted energy! Well if your home has a folding attic stair, a fireplace, and/or a clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home! These often overlooked sources of heat loss and air leakage can cause your heat pour out and the cold outside air pour in costing you higher heating bills, causing cold drafts, and wasting energy. Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Air leaks occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Homeowners are well aware of the benefits of applying caulk and weatherstripping to these areas to minimize heat loss and cold drafts. But what can you do about the three largest "holes" in your home the folding attic stair, the fireplace, and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes. Attic Stairs: Do you have a folding attic stairway in your house? When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet!) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed. And what is installed to cover this opening? A thin, unsealed, un-insulated sheet of plywood! Did you know that your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors? In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood! Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the door. Try this yourself: at night when it is dark, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door - do you see any light coming through? These are gaps - which add up to a large opening where your heated/cooled air leaks out 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year! This is like leaving a window open all year round! An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an attic stair cover. An attic stair cover provides an air seal, reducing the air leaks. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling. Fireplaces: Approximately 100 million homes in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home especially during the winter home-heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers! Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing! One remarkable research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating energy consumption by 30%! A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter just due to the air leakage and wasted energy caused by fireplaces! Why Does a Home With a Fireplace Have Higher Heating Bills? Hot air rises! Your heated air leaks out any exit it can find, and when your warm heated air is drawn out of your home, cold outside air is drawn in to make up for it. The fireplace is like a giant straw - sucking the heated air from your house. This is like leaving a window open all year round! An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a fireplace draftstopper. A fireplace draftstopper is an inflatable pillow that seals the damper, eliminating any air leaks. The pillow removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after. Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts: Have you ever noticed that the room containing your clothes dryer is the coldest room in your house? Ever wonder why? Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold air leaks in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house, while your heated air just pours right out! Dryer vents use a sheet metal flapper to try to reduce this air leakage. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the air leakage. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open. This is like leaving a window open all year round! An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal! A dryer vent seal will reduce unwanted air infiltration, and keep out pests, bees and rodents as well. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint, and moisture to escape. If your home has a folding attic stair, a fireplace, and/or a clothes dryer, you can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes. At Battic Door, we have developed low-cost, green solutions to these and other energy-conservation related issues. For more information please visit our website www.batticdoor.com or send a S.A.S.E. to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.