I'll focus on the HVAC side since I don't know much about direct vent hot water tanks. The quote provides enough information about what they plan to do which gives me a good feeling about this installer. However since you are providing the equipment, the quote is high in my opinion. Sounds like they are still quoting the job as if they provided it and marked it up. I think it can come down at least $5k. Who is providing high voltage power to these units, or is this an additional cost paid to another contractor? Also to clarify, will there be multiple returns on the first floor as well or one central return in the living room? I would clarify with the dealer about the ductwork system. By the quote it sounds like it is all hard metal, with no flex duct even in the attic where it is common. If this is the case, great. This could account for why the quote is on the higher end. I would strongly consider upgrading to the 15 SEER condensers if the unit price increase is not more than a couple hundred per unit. They should be quieter and are overall nicer units in my opinion even if they have the same cabinet. Another upgrade to look into is a high efficiency media filter for each unit. They typically get replaced every 6 months or in some cases up to a year, and they provide better filtration of the air and hence protection of the equipment. These may add a couple hundred per unit installation.

First off, I think you must ask dealer what upgrades you need to make to your attic where dealer will guarantee against freeze ups. That's if you are serious about placing a high eff condensing furnace in attic. Then get pricing from an insulation contractor and/or dealer if he provides that type of work. Weigh the cost of the upgrade and decide if it's worth it. I think quote #1 is ridiculously high. Good comprehensive list though for scope of work. Compare to the other quotes for apples to apples. On quote #2, I want R8 insulation up and down. I don't believe you require a 90 KBTU furnace for upstairs area. I would want to see the load calc to support that size. Drop down to 70 K model. I assume Infinity controllers for both systems. How many returns on each floor? I would want two returns on each floor, properly sized and strategically located. Filter cabinets on both systems? I think a 3 ton condenser for upstairs is oversized and would suggest going down to a 2 1/2 ton Sgl stage high eff model. Don't like that condenser on the Trane quote. I would like to see evap coil model numbers. What about filter cabinets? What model thermostats? Is this rental property? Who will remove old radiators and old pipes and make necessary repairs including flooring? These are just some general observations. IMO This post was edited by tigerdunes on Tue, Aug 20, 13 at 13:02

My cat's also a lover girl. Very love-dovey. I boarded her for the first time over Thanksgiving for 4 days. When I got her home, she clung to me like Saran Wrap for days. I felt awful. I know she thought she was abandonned. Both when she was boarded and when she had been isolated for the Radioiodine treatment, she was very quiet and scared. They told me that she was a tough cookie because she was so quiet and stoic, but, I know that she was scared and confused. Usually, she's a real blabbermouth. With that said, you have to do what's best for your cat in the long-run. He'll be confused and sad for the time he's isolated, but, after being home for a few hours, he'll forget about it. He'll be okay. Call the treatment center each day to ask about him. Also, give them a blanket or tee-shirt that smells like you (used, not washed) to put in his cage (you won't get it back, so, don't use a good one). Bring your own food (if they don't have your brand). If you give him wheatgrass at home, bring a pot of it for his cage-- a toy, too.

I would try replacing the door panels with caning first. (If you have cats, Lowe's sells metal decorative caning in the same patterns but you risk rust). The caning can be varnished, stained, dyed, or painted to match. You just need to have your front panels removed (easy job for a router with a flush trim bit) leaving just the frames. Then on the back route a small dado (groove) around the perimeter. The cane is then forced into the grove with spline. Trim the excess and you're all set. One wouldn't think that you'd get enough heat with the radiator where it is, but I assume it's been in there for a while, so who knows? If the caning doesn't work, next year you'll have to move or replace the radiator. Is your system steam or hot water? If it's hot water Donaleen has a great suggestion if the retrofit isn't too problematic. Hopefully it's not too difficult to get to the existing radiator now that the cabinet has been installed around it. With pex pipe now in common use, a radiator can be shoe horned in just about anyplace where it would make sense to have one, and a good salvage yard should have an abundance of sizes and shapes to choose from.