often those types of repairs can be accomplished by cutting a patch in it at the bottom edge of the embossed joints, then sealing with a manufacturer recommended seam sealer. If its new, this can often be made almost invisible.

"Minwax High Performance Wood Filler is essentially the same as "Bondo" used for autos, but in a different color. Since it's used for dent repairs in autos, does that change your mind about it at all?" Not exactly. Bondo has a bunch of added 'proprietary resins' that make it set up hard and match its expansion characteristics to metal. Wood barely moves with temperature, but the humidity changes the moisture content i the wood and makes it move hundreds of time more than metal.

Replace ALL the trim? Dude...it's a 4,000 sq. ft. house. There's wood trim, wood built-ins, wood doors, wood library paneling, wood banisters and stairs, wood everywhere. Are you volunteering the $50,000+ I'd need to do that? I accept cash, checks, and money orders. :) Okay, I know you're right. I'm asking for the impossible, so let's back up and let me get more specific and practical. Why do you think the finish is varnish? Given the long drying time of varnish, would a builder use that on a house with tons of trim? Wouldn't shellac be more likely? I was thinking the finish was an orange shellac that was brushed on in one step. I'm told if I use denatured alcohol I can test the finish...and if it's shellac, the finish should disolve immediately. And if that's the case, couldn't I use new shellac touch up the scratches...basically use a tiny brush and go over the scratches to hide and refinish? Then maybe polish with wax? Has anyone done this? Is there a good resource for information on this...something more detailed than the Minwax website? This must be pretty common. I know I could go the wax stick or stain pen route, but those don't last. I don't need perfect, just good and long lasting. Most of the imperfections are pretty minor and haven't damaged the wood. You know...ordinary wear and tear. I'm okay with a little "patina," I just don't like the scuffy look of the wood right now.

I don't have any experience with peepholes except the one I installed in my front door. That just screwed apart in the middle. You might see a slot on one side of the peephole. That's for a tool like a thick putty knife or very large screwdriver to grab. As to doors not hanging properly after removal, that can happen if you remove the hinges from the frame. I always just remove the hinge pins to remove the door, and if the door's old and I want to paint it, I'll also leave the hinges attached to the door and tape them. The key is to not remove any screws that go into wood.