We also have this problem - and I also thought of Plexiglass. But I went to Staples and bought some Bristol Board which I then proceeded to tape against the wall under the "favoured" window - using 3Ms blue tape - the one that can be used for 14 days without taking off paint - and then I put pieces of tape across the sill where the claws of death grip. Doesn't look great but it works. We have a 22 lb. American Eskimo - with long legs. But he has to hold on to the window sill in order to look out - and bark. This is Plan A - and probably Plans B - Z. So far so good.

First, do not ever bring your dog in when he's been scratching. You are reinforcing the behavior by rewarding him. I know it's difficult because you just want him to stop scratching but you really have to stop rewarding it. When you hear him scratching, tell him firmly "no" or "leave it" and do not let him in. Second, train him to another way of letting you know he wants in. Barking (once) works for some - personally I don't like that because then the neighbors have to hear him bark. Our dogs ring bells both to go out and to come in and that works very well for us. Perhaps you can come up with another idea of a signal. Third, to protect what remains of your door, put a carpet remnant over the area he scratches. If you leave your dog outside without a human and without a way to come inside on his own, he WILL find a way to tell you he is ready to come in. It's not fair to expect him to simply wait for you to get him. Therefore, you have to teach him an acceptable way to tell you.

Very few vets have the capability to do an allergy test in house, unless they have a particular interest in dermatology. And they'd almost certainly have to order the intradermal test kit in advance because they expire very rapidly. Anyway, that's moot now because with the steroid shot your dog can't be tested for 3 months, until the shot wears off. The steroid will suppress the reaction we're looking for in the test, so she'll come up negative for everything. Dogs have to be off all medications (steroids, immunotherapy drugs, antihistamines) for several weeks to get valid test results. As far as the itching goes, hopefully since I'm posting more than 24 hours later it's resolved. If not, you can add benadryl as annz said; get the dose from your vet. Also if you buy OTC allergy meds be sure they are ONLY antihistamines and no decongestants because you'll have one super-wired dog otherwise. The worse side effect of benadryl is sedation, unless you're like me and you get wired. Most get sedated, which may help her sleep better. You can give the Frontline if it is due, but not if you've given her a bath. Wait 2 days if you've bathed her. Frontline needs the oil in the skin to spread properly. Fall is a pretty common time to get seasonal allergies. My Aleksander was worse in fall too. I started him on antihistamines in late August and kept him on them until end of October. He responded best to chlorpheniramine, not benadryl (diphenhydramine). My Lab prefers the diphenhydramine. If there's been a change in food or treats she could be reacting to that. Max (the Lab) gets VERY itchy if he eats lamb or lays on wool. He also has seasonal allergies, poor guy. I have to bathe him every 2 weeks to remove the allergens (pollens, molds) from his coat this time of year. We use fragrance-free detergents and fabric softeners because Aleksander had reactions to the scented types (they all have doggie beds). The link annz provided has some really good information. I hope your girl is feeling better by now!

Sanding off the awful Wolmans Extremem in my Screened Porch. Turned real dark and showed dog scratch marks. If I want a Coating that is light and won't darken over time and that I can redo and have it cover dog scratch marks evenly, what should I use. Someone recommended Sherwin Williams Natural Oil Toner. Anyone know anything about this?