Exterior masonry of any kind should not continue from outside into the enclosed inside portion of the house; there should be a break containing flashing and/or waterproofing. If such a barrier has been omitted, it will most likely have to be installed. Sealant or caulking is only a temporary repair at best. There is no way to know how to solve your specific problem without seeing a detail of the indoor/outdoor condition. If there is water in contact with solid masonry or a crack it will move through it by gravity, hydrostatic pressure, or capillary action (wicking) but in a properly constructed slab, a layer of coarse gravel or crushed stone (not fine materials like sand or clay) prevents water from being wicked up to the bottom of the slab (unless there is hydrostatic pressure present). Water vapor moves through a material if the air above the slab is drier. In a properly designed slab a sheet vapor retarder is sufficient to prevent water vapor from passing through the slab. In the case of hydrostatic pressure a waterproofing layer is required below the slab. None of this is difficult; it's standard concrete construction practice in commercial construction but it appears to be often ignored by home builders.

My previous house had a large window in the shower as well. I used obscured glass, and you're instinct is right....you get nowhere near the same amount of light as from clear glass. (As an aside to this question, I opted for a vinyl window in the shower and was glad I did...NO question of rot). In my current kitchen remodel, I had a sort-of similar issue...windows looking directly out onto a sort of light well between row houses...a very unattractive view. After exploring the options, I opted for cascade glass. Most window companies offer it or smoething like it...sometimes called rain glass...and a whole slew of other textured glass options. Many of them are much clearer than the obscured glass and let a lot more light in, while still blocking the view. You might find that you're still not comfortable standing in the altogether in front of some...I would think someone outside might be able to guess that the blur they see is a body in a shower...but others could work well. I'd check out the options available.

Slateberry, from your pics, I'd say the two side windows and the area around the pause marks is original--the colors look right, and it is a pain to change out old glass with stained--I've done that on my main parlor window--as high up as that looks, it would be even tougher--so I bet it's original. As to the balcony, do the prints show spindles, or are they just calling the knee-wall a railing? Worthy, the big draw in old homes for most buyers IS the original details--they are unmatchable today without huge cost--and add significantly to resale value if they are still there for the next owners. Don't care about stuff like that, then why are you in such a house? Newer is usually cheaper to keep up; don't care if you risk losing prospective buyers by altering your house's original details--then go ahead and kiss your dollars goodbye. As to style--old houses tend to be well-built and appeal because of their design--and that is something which anyone can appreciate--don't you have an idea when something appeals to you or when it doesn't? If you change exterior features a house just won't 'look' right, and the parts which don't fit will become obvious as you look hard at a place. Most old house buyers have a basic idea of what fits or appeals to them, and want houses which preserve as much of that charm as possible. I had a vague idea of the different styles, but I educated myself during my years in my house--you just need to look at a few plan books to get an idea; the one thing I KNEW when house hunting was this: I grew up in a 50's ranch, and would never buy such a house for myself--I had to have two stories, and something with some character inside, not just boxes with basic trim as I'd grown up in.

Autumn- often upcharges are higher in lower priced cabinets which is why you are finding prices high in Silverline. I haven't worked with Medallion for a while so don't know for sure but you might look at the next line up. Sometimes a slightly better cabinet comes in less. For example I took a quick look at a few things your considering in my mainstream semi custom line (used a generous but typical markup on -in the Midwest could be a little less) -15 x 54 cabinet with drawer, standard finished sides-$441 -27 x 39 wall cab $479 -add seeded glass doors to a 27 x 39 cabinet-$289 -21 sq ft of beaded panels 1" thick for island $1603 -five piece drawerheads in painted finish $47 each there is a much less expensive way to do the bead board but would require a seam (in this line anyway) Using 1/4" thick beadboard, a batten over the seam and corner moldings is less than $225 Now typically this line prices in the ballpark of Shiloh but higher than Silverline. Point is different lines/brands have different strengths when it comes to pricing so take a look at the next level in Medallion. Also compare the price for prep for glass but without the glass supplied. Many mfgs charge a premium for glass to cover breakage. You can get it locally and install on site.