sfsuperstar: "My husband's really doesn't like the ridge, and the rest of the ceiling is so smooth he thinks trying to blend a 3/4" deep ridge will look obvious, so his tentative plan as of this evening is to remove the ridge of mesh to try to flatten it, then try to redo the crack repair smooth." That sounds reasonable. You may have to widen the crack just a bit more and clean it out, trying to cut under the edges as much as you can so the patching material has a place to grab in to and hang on. sfsuperstar: "It seems that the sagging part isn't an edge of the mesh, but is a center part of the mesh -- like an upside-down mini-mountain ridge. Should he try to cut out just the ridge part of the mesh with an exacto knife, or does he have to remove the whole mesh tape (even the part that's not sagging)?' I would guess it depends on how easily it cuts. I've not used it before, so I can't say. If it ravels and gets frayed and stringy, then it may be hard to cover over again with whatever you use. sfsuperstar: "And should he re-repair the crack / removal damage with flat drywall tape and joint compound? Or is there something plaster-specific that he should use? I'm not familiar with the patching plaster you mentioned." It may be OK to use the drywall tape, but I would wonder how much it would give or move under changes in temp and humidity in the ceiling without breaking loose at some point. I really don't know! We got the patching plaster at the hardware store; it's dry and comes in fairly small bags, and you just add it to a small amount of water in a container and let it absorb the water, stirring or 'folding' the mixture only very gently. If memory serves, drywall compound is still water soluble after it dries, while the patching plaster is a bit more impervious to water once it dries. Drywall compound also has a tendency to crack easily as it dries if it's applied to thickly, and the patching plaster doesn't do that as readily.

How can i repair small cracks made from using the pro plug system on tigerwood deck. may want to try hidden fasteners on 2nd part of deck any suggestions?

jal, Drylok will not work unless you make the crack wider. This happened to me in a house I used to own. I used a hammer drill and made the crack wider, at least a 1/2" wide. Then I filled the crack with drylok... it worked. Not a clean job though, try to keep the floor wet were your working, it keeps the concrete dust down. There might be an easier way to get the crack wider but this worked. Also, when your all done find out where outside the water is draining to the house and change the grade so it doesn't anymore.... course 9" is a lot of rain.... Thanks Dave

C-8 - Concrete Contractor California Code of Regulations Title 16, Division 8, Article 3. Classifications A concrete contractor forms, pours, places, finishes and installs specified mass, pavement, flat and other concrete work; and places and sets screeds for pavements or flatwork. This class shall not include contractors whose sole contracting business is the application of plaster coatings or the placing and erecting of steel or bars for the reinforcing of mass, pavement, flat and other concrete work. Authority cited: Sections 7008 and 7059, Reference: Sections 7058 and 7059 (Business and Professions Code)