You can install the Miele below counter in an island. It requires at least a 20Amp 220 or 240V circuit. As far as getting all one brand, I would blow that off. Be satisfied that you got the best appliance you could find for each application rather than subjugate your requirements to gagganistic corporate whim. Cooks and appliance cognoscenti will approve even if your decorator doesn't. The Miele speed oven will do fine as just a plain microwave, so long as you don't mind using the "Minute +" button for most regular microwaving chores. E.g., heating up a coffee, hit the minute plus button once and be prepared to pull it out early. Popcorn, hit the minute plus button 3 times and be prepared for poppus interruptus, etc. While the microwave is fully controllable for time and duty cycle, there are no "popcorn" or "casserole" buttons on the front panel. You have to go into menus for detailed control. The 4080BM is the older speed oven variant that I own. It was replaced by the 4042 and 4082 a couple years ago. They still had the 4080 on the website a few months ago. I just noticed that they had taken them down. Expect most of the capability of the 4082 in the 4080. The interior surface is easier to clean on the newer models, and the 82 has a lower heating element which may make it more suitable to do pizza (the one thing my speed oven does not do well is pizza, but I am a purist) The 42 is almost a grand less and does not have the temperature probe, the lower heater element, and the digital library of dishes you can select with the "masterchef" 4082, but it has all the heating power. I never use the library anyway, so the only reason I would get the 82 would be the lower heater and the fact that the control panel is knobless, which I like. But I will say the Miele is a GREAT second oven/broiler/toaster oven. The "speed" component, meaning that it can cook in modes that combine broiler, convection, and microwave heating, make it quite the go-to device once you get the hang of it.

I also installed this heater about a month ago and had all the same problems and was just about ready to get rid of it when a gas man that knew his stuff came along. It took him only a few minutes to fix. All he did was increase the gas pressure. My heater now stays on and no longer cycles. It ignites much quicker and I no longer get the gas smell. The only thing that bothers me is that several people seem to be having the same problem so the setting must not have been done properly at Hayward factory and they won't pay the gas guy so the customer gets stuck with the bill($200+ in my case) as they say "not under warranty". Thanks a lot Hayward. I know that I won't forget this experience next time I need a new piece of pool equipment.

It is much easier to buy a new valve, separate it and install the center part which is damaged. There are 4 screws. Don't slam Spa Parts Plus. They are a wholesaler and are dropping the shipment to their customer. That is a lousy way of doing business. In the future, order from a local guy who can get the same part locally or through a distributor such as SPP. That new valve will not run much. Drain the spa, replace it when there is no water gushing all over the place. No glue required.

I guessed when it was about 400 cfm. Standing at the range, you should be able to sense when it begins to move a lot of air. The switch I purchased, has a 1/4" compression fitting for copper tubing. The tubing is inserted into the duct. The adjustment is a screw ( I believe it's simply weighted ). I set it up about 6 years ago, and it works well. Not to get complicated........... Since I had the kitchen gutted, the walls were easily acessible: By the range, I added a 2 gang electricl box: For a MUA axial fan speed control, and a switch for the MUA duct heaters. We have found you don't always want that much air blasting into the kitchen. Duct heaters, we're in Minnesota. I found a double throw / off in the middle levitown decorator switch. This way we can get no heat, low, or high heat.