I have the Bosch Nexxt 800. I strongly recommend AGAINST it. That said, it heats the water on ALL cycles, including the cold and delicate cycles. This is not mentioned in any of Bosch's sales literature or the user manual; I was told by customer service after I called to complain that my washer was using warm water in a cold setting. I wish I had realized that before I purchased because I would not have purchased it and would not have the lemon I am now stuck with. Bottom line, my washer has two, randomly occurring chronic problems. 1. The drum will not turn at all during the entire cycle and then it beeps as if it is finished over an hour later. You know that this happened, bc when to go to take the laundry from the washer and put it in the dryer, you realize part of the load is completely dry, while the area where the water spilled the detergent and other laundry additives, is sopping wet. Lucky for me that I don't use bleach! 2. The washer will not spin at a high speed. I'm not talking super high, it decides to flop the clothing around very slowly and just never bothers to get up to any speed at all. Thus, you are left with a sopping wet load that has not been rinsed properly! I assume the machine is attempting to "balance" the load prior to high speed spinning, and never manages to become content. This problem occurs at least one day a week and on that day will occur for several load-attempts in a row. It has happened on Cold and Hot washes and on my follow-up attempts to do a "Refresh" cycle, which is a rinse and spin. It has happened on both full and small loads, even loads of towels-only, which should be the easiest to balance. This machine has no option for "Spin" only. The only way to get it to spin is to learn the special button combo from a repairman. I've had my machines since July 21, 2008, and have yet to have the problem corrected by Bosch. I have reported this problem on GW before and other owners of this machine have emailed me asking if I had the problem corrected bc they were having the same trouble. Buyer beware!

The IntelliFlo will communicate directly through the RS485 cable to an IntelliTouch. Any other system requires the IntelliCom which is an interface that communicates through a function on the pump called EXTERNAL CONTROL. EX CONTROL basically takes any electric signal and activates a preprogrammed function 1-4 on the pump. Thus, 4 speeds. With the 3.2kw, you still get all the additional features it offers but it works with the 4x160 as well. The common installations require one AUX relay for each of the 4 speeds you set up. So, if you buy an RS8, you have wiped out 4 right there. If you can wait a year, sure, Jandy will allow the pump to plug directly into their new board. You may consider the Pentair Easy Touch as it will not require the IntelliCom. Techs do have the ability to tweak installations on the IntelliFlos with Jandy as there are other places to hook into that do not use a relay. You basically need any DC output that can be controlled from the panel sockets. Valves are all the same and will work on any system. The Jandy valve is far better from a set up standpoint if you need to adjust them but they come at a price premium over others. The IntelliTouch is not dated. It is a great system that is probably one of the best out there. You may consider a Jandy PureLink that will give you automation and salt. The new LXi is an awesome heater. I'd take it over the Pentair anyday.

Everyone, Once again thank you for all your very helpful comments that you gave me this past May. As "heating" season is going to start soon here in the Northeast, I will be again relying on my gas boiler again. Since the last posting here, I had a professional come out here to clean & inspect the boiler, double check the chimney (he stuck a mirror into it and we both saw daylight) and he proclaimed the unit in perfect working condition. The Pro did advise me on two things that I wish to run by you all for further opinion, lf you don't mind. 1) The Pro advised (he has over 30 years of experience) that I should get a "better quality" spill switch than the one that I currently am using. The one I have (and already changed 2 times) is the one that is made specifically for this unit (rated at 210F): http://www.supplyhouse.com/Weil-McLain-510-300-013-Spill-Switch-w-Reset-210-F He said I should get a better quality one made by Field Controls, something like: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-GSK-4-200-Gas-Spillage-Sensing-Switch-w-Manual-Reset or even http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-FTS-6-180-Safety-Switch-w-Manual-Reset-120-240V Now, my question is this: Since my Weil-McLain EG-45 SPDN unit is rated at 210F, and I will put a spill switch that is 200F or even 180F rated, is that okay? The Pro did confirm that my existing spill-switch location is in the right spot and that I do not need two of them for my type of a unit. 2) As far as the Vent-Damper (to remind, I installed a brand new one last winter, made by Field Controls). The Pro said that he would just leave it in MANUAL mode. When I asked him about the danger of having "bad gasses" leakage into the house, he stated that the boiler will shut itself off as there are other protection sensors there and that this AUTO function is now included into the Vent-Dampers more for better efficiency of the unit than for safety. Is he right? I should also add: a) I do have a 4" clean-air going into the boiler room directly from the street (boiler room being a closed-off section with 2 doors, with two return 20 inches x 8 inches ventilation grille's that have the air escape into the rest of the basement). The actual room measures 6 feet long x 7 feet wide x 8 feet high and only contains the gas hot water heater and the gas boiler. b) On the advice of the Pro, I tried turning on the heat (via my Thermostat) a number of times during the summer's hot & humid days (it was like 80F in the room, so I had to set the Thermostat manually to 82F). The unit started-up every time without problems and I let it work for 5 mins or so before turning it off. The Pro said that during the very humid days that the heavy air that gets trapped in the chimney could force the Vent-Damp to trigger the spill switch. It never did. I await your comments. Thank you again in advance for your time and knowledge.

Whirlpool-made dryers typically have two thermal fuses. One is on the heater box and functions as a fail-safe for the high-limit thermostat, which keeps the electric element or gas burner from overheating if airflow is impaired or other such problem occurs (or if an electric element shorts to ground and heats when the dryer is Off). The machine will run but not heat if this fuse blows. The high-limit thermostat and blown fuse should be replaced together. The cause of the overheating should also be investigated and corrected to avoid the problem recurring. The other fuse is on the blower housing and is a safety for the operating thermostat that controls the air temperature (high, low, or whatever temperature is set for a given load). The machine may not run at all if this fuse blows. The fuse and operating thermostat usually are replaced together.